KANCHEEPURAM: Administrators of silk weaver cooperative societies here, coming under the Department of Cooperatives, have expressed shock over an announcement by the Department of Handlooms and Textiles that "all players in silk weaving industry" are eligible to obtain geographical indicator (GI) mark, issued exclusively for Kancheepuram silk saris.

3 categories

Enquiries reveal that as per the application issued by the Handlooms and Textiles department, three categories — weaver and manufacturer, manufacturer and retail trader and buyer and seller — are eligible to enrol themselves with the department for getting the GI mark.

While individuals who weave silk saris for cooperative societies or for private loom owners can apply for enrolment under the first category, master weavers (having more than two handlooms under their control) and engaged in retail/wholesale trading could become eligible under the second category. Businessmen, who neither own looms nor have any direct contact with actual weavers, could apply for enrolment under the third category.

The silk weaver cooperative societies, a conglomeration of poor and underprivileged craftsmen, have been denied their right to use the GI mark on the saris manufactured by their members as the application had to be made only in the names of individuals, say sources in the industry.

Central unit stand

But, the Silk Mark Organisation of India, an autonomous body under the Union Ministry of Textiles, has recognised silk weaver cooperative societies for getting the silk mark logo issued by them.

Non-recognition of the cooperative societies for getting the GI mark logos would defeat the very purpose of their formation, the sources say.

The aim for which the Kancheepuram silk saris were brought under GIR, i.e. to preserve the traditional weaving method, will also be threatened.

Adverse impact

Although the members of silk weaver cooperative societies could become authorised users of the GI mark, such recognition would only have an adverse impact on the societies as individuals might be lured to attach the GI labels on the saris for which private players provided raw materials.

Also, many weavers, to make a quick buck, may fall victim to private players.

On the other hand, if such recognition was extended to the societies, profits realised from export could be shared equally with the individual weavers, say the sources.

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