The Hindu : Tamil Nadu News : Designer cotton, silk saris on display

Online edition of India's National Newspaper
Thursday, May 10, 2007
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Tamil Nadu

Tamil Nadu

Designer cotton, silk saris on display

Staff Reporter

"This is aesthetics for the masses": lead designer behind the collection

CHENNAI: The sophisticated range of cotton and silk saris on display at the Lalit Kala Academy here represent an effort to create classy designer wear on the looms of ordinary weavers and then bring it into the homes of ordinary consumers. "This is aesthetics for the masses," said Priya Mani, lead designer behind the collection.

The National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad, was commissioned by the Tamil Nadu Government's Department of Handlooms and Textiles to create 1,500 new designs which were then distributed to 8,852 weavers in cooperative societies from six handloom clusters across the State. The result of the four-year project is a breezy summer line called the Kodai Pookkal collection, which incorporates a contemporary colour scheme and trendy designs with traditional weaving techniques.

"The idea is to make it affordable, with high quality designs woven for lower rates," said N.K.K.P. Raja, Minister for Handlooms and Textiles, as he launched the new collection.

While the cotton saris from clusters in Tiruchi and Vilandhai are priced from Rs. 200 upward, the silk collection from clusters in Kancheepuram and Thirubuvanam cost between Rs. 2,000 and Rs. 40,000. The exhibition and sale are open from May 9 to 14.

The designs have been inspired by everything from traditional motifs and drawings to temple architecture to the colours and patterns of homes, flowers, even utensils — the small details of everyday life in Tamil Nadu. "We did extensive documentation and research about Tamilian culture... as well as customer surveys in all major Indian markets before designing these saris," said Ms. Mani.

"We have succeeded in developing an independent identity for each cluster. Earlier, every cotton sari from Tamil Nadu looked like the other. Now we have helped them develop distinctive designs," said Vijay Singh Katiyar who headed the NID's team.

Apart from developing new designs and colour schemes for the silk and cotton sari weavers, the design team created a whole new product range for the traditional lungi weavers in Cuddalore and Gudiyattam. The result is a line of readymade cotton shirts, kurtas and salwars, with prices starting at Rs. 200.

"The weaver might receive Rs. 50 a day for weaving lungis, but he could make up to Rs. 130 with these new designs," said M.P. Nirmala, managing director of Cooptex, which will help market the collection.

Export potential

Another 1,000 designs from the NID project will be launched in time for Deepavali said the Commissioner of Handlooms and Textiles M.R. Mohan who added that the department would also explore the export potential of these designs.

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