The Hindu : Tamil Nadu / Chennai News : A taste of the Sangam Age

Online edition of India's National Newspaper
Saturday, May 12, 2007
ePaper

Tamil Nadu

Tamil Nadu - Chennai

A taste of the Sangam Age

Swahilya

Master chef waxes eloquent on ancient food varieties

Jacob Sahayakumar Aruni. — Photo: Swahilya

CHENNAI : As one chats with chef Jacob Sahayakumar Aruni in the antique environs of Sri Krishna Sweets, Purasawalkam, it is as if time rewinds to the 2nd century A.D. of Kongunad and Nanjilnad.

As the `panagam' is served in a copper-plated tumbler, the master chef waxes eloquent on the food varieties of the Sangam age when there were no tomatoes, onions or garlic. Coconut, coriander seeds, tamarind and pepper were the main ingredients.

The Principal of the Catering Wing of the Cheran College of Arts and Science, Kangeyam, Mr. Jacob Aruni did research on Sangam Age cuisine from sources such as the Tamil Peragarathi, Thamizhar Unavu, Bhojana Kuthukalam and Nalapakam.

Biriyani history

"The credit often goes to the Moghuls for introducing the biriyani. But there was a second century version of the biriyani, the `Oon Soru,' which was served as a feast for victorious warriors," he says. It wasn't until the 16th century that onions, tomatoes and spices arrived in these parts, he adds.

Mr. Jacob Aruni chose to study and later popularise the Kongunad recipes as Tamil Nadu seemed to be known only for its Chettinad varieties. He counts, among his inspirational figures, the executive Chef of GRT Grand N. Seetharaman Prasad and Chef Soundararajan, general secretary of the Indian Federation of Chefs Associations.

Mr. Jacob Aruni now cooks delicacies with flowers — lilies, chrysanthemum, marigold, jasmine, rose, hibiscus, banana, neem and pumpkin.

"The thumb rule is, if the fragrance is acceptable, then the flower is edible," Mr. Jacob Aruni says.

His recipes have the waft of aroma in their names... rose petals paniyaram, jasmine panneer, flower salads, fruit juice biriyani and much and much more.

Printer friendly page
Send this article to Friends by E-Mail