The Hindu : Front Page : Handloom award eludes weavers

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Friday, Jul 06, 2007
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Handloom award eludes weavers

Karthik Madhavan/ S. Ramesh

Weavers in Erode and Salem yet to get award
‘Buyers should recognise craftsmanship’

ERODE/SALEM: National Award for Handlooms, instituted by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, has long eluded handloom weavers in Erode and Salem.

The Government has instituted the award in recognition of excellent workmanship, innovation and revival of languishing crafts and presents them annually in New Delhi with the President of India giving away the prizes – a plaque and Rs. 50,000.

Sources in Erode say in Bhavani and Chennimalai towns known for carpet and home furnishings respectively, not a single handloom weaver has won the award, the reason for which goes farther than not coming with a competent design or innovation. Weavers in the towns are used to and prefer weaving fast-moving varieties, which help them earn wages to run the family. Given their moderate income, most do not go in for innovation, which requires not only money but also technology, explains a source from a Chennimalai society. This holds good for weavers outside the cooperative fold as well. That apart, most societies take orders from Karur exporters, who give not just the orders but also pattern, design and colour, leaving very little scope for innovation.

In Bhavani too the story repeats itself but with an additional angle. Carpet weavers and society managers claim there is very little room for innovation or workmanship in carpets. A society manager who has been in the trade for over two decades says apart from design and colour very little else can be changed.

In Salem, increasing production cost and stiff global competition, it appears, have rendered the handloom industry an unviable one. And, this has stunted innovation and creativity in handlooms.

The drought in the award, Handloom Department officials say, has also to do with the handloom weavers switching over to powerloom for better market and wages. “Only when there is good, sustained market for handloom products, weavers’ creativity flows spontaneously, resulting in innovations in design. However, a majority of the weavers find their business less remunerative and hence go for powerlooms.”

The other reason is competition. “Very few weavers still come up with design innovations, but they are unable to compete with the rich and innovative designs of their counterparts in other parts of the country,” says Periyasamy, Deputy Director (in-charge), Handlooms.

The Salem region, which had over 40,000 handlooms a few years ago, has just half of it today. “If the design is not commercially successful, then we have to incur heavy loss, for which we are not prepared,” they reason.

Assistant Director, Weavers Service Centre, C. Rajendran, however, thinks different. He says that the buyers should come forward to recognise the craftsmanship and encourage handloom weavers.

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