The Hindu : New Delhi News : More to this show than meets the eye

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Sunday, Mar 16, 2008
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New Delhi

More to this show than meets the eye

Anuj Kumar

– PHOTO: SANDEEP SAXENA

BOLLYWOOD CALLING: Film star Zayed Khan, Soha Ali Khan, Sophie and fashion designer Manish Malhotra (left) walking down the ramp wearing Manav Gangwani creations at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week in New Delhi on Saturday.

NEW DELHI: For long the Indian fashion industry has suffered for want of figures. No one knows how much designer wear contributes to the apparel industry. Lack of proper accounts also keeps the corporate world away from the creative fraternity. Even this year at the ongoing Wills Lifestyle Fashion Week at Delhi’s Pragati Maidan, not many corporate biggies have been seen apart from Darshan Mehta of Reliance Brands. Now, if the Fashion Design Council of India is to be believed, things are going to change.

Says FDCI Executive Director Sumeet Nair, “The Council is commissioning a study to figure out where the designer fraternity stands in the apparel industry. This would help us in facilitating tie-ups between designers and corporate houses.”

According to Sumeet Nair, talks are on with Technopak and a couple of other agencies. “Within a month the study would be commissioned and the report would be with us in the next four months.” Meanwhile, as the much talked about Fashion Week gets over this Sunday evening, there is hardly any evidence of designers coming up with any specific trends. From bubble-hem skirts to dhoti-pants, everything is on show. “Everybody is trying to show everything. Designers, particularly the young ones, have concentrated on style statements rather than the functionality aspect of the outfit,” says seasoned fashion-watcher Harmeet Bajaj. She points out the hoods and crystallised stockings seen on the ramp these past few days. Apparently in an attempt to please both domestic and international buyers, designers showcased muted tones and bright hues in the same show.

Alan Bilzerian, a buyer from Boston, echoes the sentiment: “Some of the shows were extravaganzas, where the creativity impresses you but you ask yourself where you will wear it!”

Alan was impressed by the neat cuts of Rajesh Pratap Singh and has already placed an order. “We want Indian handicrafts with a European finish -- something Rajesh does very well. We are not interested in something too dressy.”

About the wardrobe malfunction during Rajesh’s show on Friday, Alan says it is something usual in fashion: “The media should concentrate on serious issues.”

“Control is the definitive word in fashion,” says J. J. Valaya, who showcased his collection “Paisa”: “You’ve got to have the right blend of creativity and commercial viability in your collection. And this comes with years of practice. One successful collection can’t sustain you. Indian embroidery and craft are our unique selling points and are going to help in countering the foreign labels,” says the veteran. Something Niki Mahajan managed to achieve through her collection. She is said to have re-defined block printing this year.

“I have used muted colours and softer fabrics which are generally not used for block printing. I have been trying to understand the international customer’s need for the last three years and now have been able to translate it courtesy my artisans. They are the real beneficiaries, as after the response they would now happily sustain the technique for years to come.”

Infrastructure issues still remain a topic of discussion. Raghavendra Rathore feels that after the demolition of MG 1 not long ago, FDCI should tie up with a real estate house and come up with an exclusive mall for designers. “What is happening right now is a designer store is operating next to a retailer.”

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