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Aura of an era

No talk or write-up about Kamarajar Salai is complete without the mention of one of the largest temple tanks in South India, the Vandiyur Mariamman Teppakulam.

This famous road of Madurai is flushed with history and heritage and always abuzz with business. But it is perhaps the celebration of one of the most picturesque festivals that lends Kamarajar Salai all its popularity and aura now. Even a tourist would know more about Teppakulam and the Teppotsavam held there than perhaps the road that leads to his or her hotel.

Situated roughly five kms from the Meenakshi Amman Temple, the sheer size of this beautiful square tank (measuring 1150 feet by 950 feet) spread over 16 acres is guesstimated to be almost the size of the Meenakshi Temple.

According to mythology, a great excavation was carried out here to obtain bricks and sand to build the Tirumalai Nayak Mahal. The place gained sanctity as a statue of Lord Vigneswara, the Elephant faced God, apparently emerged from the ground. A Vinayakar Temple was constructed right there on an island pavilion with a garden in the center of the huge pit which was later converted into a Teppakulam (tank). The tank is connected to the River Vaigai through a network of underground water channels. The temple and 12 long steps made of granite on all four sides were built by King Thirumalai Nayak.

Mariamman Teppakulam is famous for celebrating Float festival in the Tamil month of Thai. The festival commemorates the birthday of King Thirumalai Nayak. The celebrations take place on a full moon night and the pristine water turns colourful as the temple is lit. The idols of Goddess Meenakshi and Lord Sundareswarar are taken in palanquins in a grand procession to the Teppakulam where they are seated on brightly decorated and illuminated raft-like structures or floats called “Teppa” and taken around the shrine. The sight of the ornamental teppa decorated with varieties of flowers and garlands, silken buntings and paper lanterns with the deities placed in them and slowly floating on the shimmering sheet of water glowing with reflections of light is simply mesmerizing. Thousands of devotees, tourists and visitors converge here to partake in the festive occasion.

If Teppakulam’s religiosity lends much appeal to Kamarajar Salai, the place is not bereft of political history either. In the 60s when the Congress leader K Kamaraj came to Saurashtra Higher Secondary School on what was then known as the Ramnad Road, he was very impressed by free mid-day meal scheme run by the school for poor children. At that time it happened to the first and the only school in Tamil Nadu implementing such a scheme. Kamaraj was so inspired that he instantly announced the launch of a Statewide mid-day meal scheme in all schools.

It is yet another feat now that the Saurashtra school which recently celebrated its centenary has gone beyond noon meal and also provides breakfast to the poor students.

Mr.SVKM Ramalingam, owner of the seven year old Menaka Ramalingam Arangam on Kamarajar Salai, where he earlier operated a rice mill for three decades, feels the other important site on this road is where the Pankajam Colony stands now. The vast estate contained a beautiful 19th Century bungalow with a unique round shape reception hall in the middle of a beautiful garden filled with a large number of shade-giving trees, the 75-year old quotes from history.

The original owner of the sprawling 40 acres was a former British Collector, Mr.Spoke, from whom it went to a Congress MLA, Mr.A.S.Subbaraj, during Kamaraj’s time. And that is when the name changed from Spoke Bungalow to Pangajam Gardens.

In late 50s, this magnificient landmark disintegrated as a part of it was sold as housing plots while a portion was bought by the Indian Express group for printing their edition. Today the place is rechristened as New Pankajam Colony.

Mr.Ramalingam, himself a resident of Kamarajar Salai for more than six decades, narrates a hearsay story about the Spoke Bungalow.

It was considered a haunted place because the British Collector’s wife was enraged to see a cow grazing in her beautiful garden and immediately shot it down. The cow was pregnant and it is believed that thereafter a curse befell the Spoke family and the property.

Soma Basu

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