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Weavers squeezed by higher prices

Deepa H. Ramakrishnan

Rocketing input costs see profit margins slide


Many weavers are increasingly turning to other, better paying jobs


Photo: B. Jothi Ramalingam

slow going A weaver at M. K. B.Nagar in Chennai.

Though they weave colourful threads and zari together, breathing life into raw silk and cotton, their lives have lost a lot of sheen. With prices of raw material shooting up and materials not available in time, weavers are seeing a slide in profits.

In the past two years the price of kora, the raw material for silk saris, has seen vast fluctuations.

“Last year it shot up from Rs.1,200 to Rs.2,000 and has now stabilised at Rs.1,600. This was due to a sudden demand for kora. Higher gold prices caused an increase in zari rates from Rs.2,400 a kilo to the present Rs.6,000,” says K.Suresh, a weaver from Kancheepuram.

"This unprecedented price increase has led to a steep hike in the price of saris. Pieces that used to cost Rs.5,000 are now priced at Rs. 8,000. Not realising this most shops and customers expect the same old rates,” he adds.

This has forced many weavers to go for artificial zari, which is cheaper.

Shops label and sell them as artificial zari saris. Customers who cannot afford to buy pure zari saris prefer these.

M. Krishnan, a contractor, who employs 20 weavers to make saris for a private showrooms in Chennai, says wages of weavers have also increased slowly over the past two years.

“The prices of other commodities have gone up and we had to raise salaries. For an ordinary sari we paid Rs.950 two years ago but now we pay Rs.1,200. For wedding saris the rate previously was Rs.2,000 and now it is Rs.2,750. Yet people demand more,” he laments. The costs of dyeing, repairing the looms and making new designs have also gone up.

Weavers are increasingly turning to other better paying jobs. Rathnam, a designer-cum-weaver, now works in a factory.

Designing has become a part time job. Sari weaver Malarkodi said she was thinking of giving up the profession.

“Often, we do not get the required raw materials and are without work. Many youngsters are opting for company jobs.”

Ganesan of Kundrathur, who makes lungis, says many families in his area had discontinued their vocations.

“Those who still continue to work get only Rs. 700 as labour for a week of work, but they can’t be sure of getting work regularly.”

According to the Policy note on Handlooms and Textiles for the year 2008 – 2009 there were a total of 4.13 lakh handlooms employing 6.08 lakh weavers in the State.

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