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Unique Siva-Vishnu shrine

ALSO KNOWN as Tiruvinjikode, Tirumittakode is just about five kilometres from the scenic little town of Pattambi, enroute to Guruvayur. Quite off the usual beaten track of tourists in Kerala, this 5,000-year-old temple in Parasurama kshetram, as per legend, is one of the most beautifully sited temples, atop high banks above the swirling waters of the Bharatapuzha river (also called Nila river). One of the Divya Desams (108 Tirupatis sacred to Vaishnavites), it has been sung about in 10 verses by Kulasekara Azhwar.

The temple is unique in that it has shrines for both Siva and Vishnu installed by the Pandavas, according to the temple's lore. The assembled images of the two gods here are collectively called the `Anjumoorthikoil.'

Vishnu is said to have appeared in front of Ambarisha, in response to his penance, in four forms — Vyuha Pradyumna, Aniruddha, Sankarshana and Paravasudeva.

The temple has two main shrines for Siva and Vishnu, with the latter called as Uyyavanda Perumal or Abhaya Pradhan.

In the olden days, Saivites and Vaishnavites followed their own deities and worshipped their gods, without going into the other's shrine. The Pandavas are said to have installed the deities in the surrounding small shrines — Yudhishtira the one in the centre, Bhima on the left, Arjuna in the west and Nakula and Sahadeva the last. Sivarathri is celebrated grandly here, which falls on March 8.

Heightening the ancient mystique is the mellow illumination of many oil lamps, lit in the dusk. Graceful wooden carvings make the temple a unique one. Orange and ochre vegetable dye murals exist on the ancient outer walls of the sanctum — beautifully depicting mythological events. Some of it is starting to fade, due to neglect, caused by strict adherence to temple rules laid down centuries ago. Photography within is absolutely prohibited, making it impossible to preserve faithful records of such vanishing art.

The temple accepts offerings of loose flowers only. The ixora or `thechi poo,' mandarai, nandyavattai and jasmine are favoured flowers used for worship. A strict dress code of dhoti for men, and saris, or skirts for women is followed.

RUPA GOPAL

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