The palace of murals
DUNSTAN S. MORRIS
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Krishnapuram Palace houses the famous mural `Gajendra Moksha.'
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TALES TO TELL: Krishnapuram Palace
Soaked in history and with many a story to tell, old palaces are best maintained as museums. The Krishnapuram Palace at Kayamkulam in Alappuzha was taken over by the Revenue Department after the country won independence. In 1960, it came under the State Archaeological Department. After renovation, it was opened as a museum on February 2, 2000.
Ayyappan Marthanda Pillai completed the construction of the palace during the reign of Marthanda Varma. Built according to Vasthu Shashtra, the multi-storeyed palace with ancient Kerala type gopurams has gabled, broad, steep tiled roofs, which appear as the dominant feature of the palace. Having two walls, and occupying an area of 2.87 acres, the palace has two stately gateways (`padipuras') and a vast foreground with a beautiful garden. High up on the moulded walls of the spacious front veranda are Buddhist motifs.
`Gajendra Moksha'
For connoisseurs of art, murals will be of interest, particularly the mural `Gajendra Moksha.'
The mural, covering 154 square feet, is considered the largest single-panel mural in Kerala. Painted in panchavarna (five natural colours made from vegetable oils and mineral colours, with vegetable gum as binding), the mural depicts the story of Gajendra Moksha.
Garuda's hugely spread wings convey power, and also the importance of the personage that he is carrying. Vishnu's face shows compassion. Gajendra, though being the subject, is in low profile.
Nayak period
Stella Kramrish, an art historian, has stated that the mural was created during the Vijayanagar or Nayak periods. The murals, which show the influence of Nayak paintings, depict the characters with excessive ornaments, and projecting eyes. The background is also minimal.
It was customary at the palace to bathe before having a darshan of the mural, even as poet Melpatoor says in `Narayaneeyam,' that whoever worships the mural at the break of dawn will be blessed.
Painted nearly 250 years ago, the mural is still well preserved. There are also models of murals from the Vadukunathan Temple, and Ernakulam Mattancheri Kovilakkam, depicting events from the Mahabharata and the Ramayana.
Archaeological exhibits are an important aspect. Potteries of 2500 B.C., from Mohenjodaro excavations, and collections of Megalithic artefacts, besides stone sculptures and inscriptions can be seen.
Sculpture of Buddha
A large 10th century stone sculpture of Buddha is housed in an ornate mandapam in the foreground of the palace. There are collections of bronze and brass antiques, and ironware as well.
A Sanskrit version of the Bible of the Calcutta Bible Society is a rare exhibit. Also on view is the `Anchalpetti' - a monument to the `Anchalottakaran' (mobile postman).
However, the museum does not have too many antiques that might have existed in the Palace. It is said that many years ago, the palace had been burgled, and many of the items reportedly sold.
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