Chola temple with a Pallava surprise
PRADEEP CHAKRAVARTHY
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The core of the Ulagalandha Perumal temple, Kanchipuram, is probably of Pallava vintage but inscriptions are from the Chola period.
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Photo: A. Muralitharan.
Sung by the Azhwars: Kancheepuram Ulagalandha Perumal temple.
Nagareshu Kanchi... Whoever said this must have surely been a temple lover! For Kanchi is indeed a town of temples! If a South Indian bride’s trousseau must include at least one Kanchi silk sari, each street in the town has at least one te
mple!!
When Jamuna, a good friend, wanted a quick look at a temple in Kanchi, we were spoiled for choice. Going for the dramatic effect, we chose a small temple with lots of surprises. The Ulagalandha Perumal temple, though unpretentious in appearance, had surprises for both the historian and the pilgrim. The core of the temple is probably of Pallava vintage going by the main deity but inscriptions are only from the Chola period. The temple has been sung by Azhwars of the 7-8th century but the temple may be much older. For the pilgrim, the temple houses in four separate shrines, four different deities praised by the Azhwars. The temple is unique in having four divya desams in one temple complex.
We paused at the entrance porch admiring the unusually decorated pillar corbels — with the face of an asura and stepped into the main sanctum. The small size of the temple complex and the simple structure does not quite prepare us for the main deity. At a towering 9.6 metre height and 7.2 metre width is the bas relief of Ulagalandha Perumal — Vishnu as Trivikrama measuring the world. The image has one foot over the head of king Mahabali. The other is raised parallel to the floor. His hands are stretched out, the fingers counting two in one hand and one in the other, reminding the devotee of his two steps taken, and yet to take the third. The deity is not of stone but of stucco which has periodic applications of special oil.
This is a rare image, especially the size. Despite the dimensions, the sculptor had an eye for detail, evident in the dress and ornaments and what was remarkable was that despite the size and the low light in the room, there was an obvious sense of action in the image that was palpable to the viewer.
Replete with inscriptions
Circling the main shrine we noticed the walls replete with inscriptions. Most of the inscriptions are from the Chola period. The inscriptions refer to the main deity as Thiru Uragathu Ninru-arulina Swamin. For the historian, there are interesting inscriptions from the period of Rajakesarivarman alias Tribhuvanachakravarthin Kulothunga Chola. The inscription talks of a tax-free gift to the temple of the village of Siruchembakkam that was renamed as Kampadevinallur after his queen who requested this gift to be made. Another inscription of the same dynasty records a weaver who reclaimed some temple lands, built an irrigation tank and had the proceeds donated to the deity.
There is a reference to Rajakesarivarman re-possessing the land given earlier to the weavers in the area since they did not cultivate it and returned it to the temple. This proves that the weavers were a prosperous group in ancient Kanchipuram. Another interesting inscription in the reign of Rajadhirajadeva records the minutes of a meeting of 48,000 residents of Kanchi who agreed to celebrate functions in the temple as per tradition. It gives us an indication of the population of the town in the 13th century.
The Sambuvarayar rule of the 16th century records the gift of a pond and a grove in Sevvanmedu village. Interestingly, the temple continues to possess this grove!
We stopped awhile more to soak in the atmosphere of calm and peace from the chaotic traffic outside. Life within the temple seemed to be in a time warp — the priest reading the paper spread out on the floor, ladies preparing garlands and two children playing. Refreshed by the visit we went our way for the sari shopping, and that is a different story altogether!
Trustees have recently completed the re-consecration but they need more help. For details contact — G.R.Narasimhan (044-2726 9498), g.r.ravi@vsnl.com.
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