Ideal for travel
S. RAMACHANDER
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Light-hearted anecdotes and historical analysis in equal parts.
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Beware Falling Coconuts: Perspectives of India by a BBC producer,
ADAM CLAPHAM is a former BBC producer who, after a hectic globetrotting career, saw the light and decided to retire to a simple, uncomplicated life. He chose Mangalore because it was near enough to an airport for him to escape the monsoon and go home, and far away from the tourist circuit.
In this delightful book, part memoir and part travelogue, he reflects discursively on the recent colonial past and social and political diversity of this part of the world. The book carries echoes inevitably of several similarly inclined countrymen — the analytical traits of William Dalrymple, the historical perspective of John Kay, and the lively narrative of Mark Tully. Yet it is also a light-hearted and iconoclastic mixture all its own.
Beyond India
Despite the subtitle, the area covered extends far beyond India. Clapham is present as one of the earliest journalists to cover the creation of Bangladesh, and at the celebration of the first Independence Day in Mauritius, organised by an eccentric Englishman. He goes to Colombo where he notices a signboard by the palm-fringed poolside of the Galle Face hotel, which inspired the book's title — and muses over how exactly one could protect oneself using this thoughtful warning.
A whole chapter is devoted to friend and colleague Sir Mark Tully, who combines the rare distinction of being decorated by both the British and Indian establishments — and of being sent out into the cold at different times by both his employers and Mrs. Indira Gandhi's Emergency regime. There are inevitable references to the faith bordering on veneration, which Indians hold the BBC news service. Not all stories show the institution in a favourable light, however, as they do make subtle compromises to accommodate the government of the day. Yet the resignation of both the managing director and the director general over the Hutton report strengthens the author's (and the reader's) hope for fearless and free journalism.
The book has light-hearted anecdotes and historical analysis in equal parts. There is some less-known background on historic events, such as the ruthless duplicity of the British in depriving the last maharaja of the Punjab, Duleep Singh, of his kingdom. The Maharaja emigrates to England, converts to Christianity, lives in a country estate winning the personal friendship of the Sovereign, Queen Victoria, despite the frostiness from her own Indian Hovernment. There is a moving scene where the maharaja actually returns the Koh-i-Noor to the queen with his good wishes.
The formation of the Indian Ocean island of Diego Garcia and the British leasing it out as a strategic airbase for the US Air force, driving out the natives, makes chilling reading. It is clearly a violation of human rights, UN resolutions and contractual obligations, all to meet the aggressive demands of the US.
Equally, the book has light-hearted anecdotes, such as the author being quizzed by an old India hand while being looked over for admission into the Oriental Club in London. "Hear you've been to Calcutta, where did you stay?" is the opening gambit, to which the only acceptable answer is "At the Bengal Club, sir". The follow-on is an innocuous-looking googly, "And was that in the main building or in the chambers?" to which the only appropriate stroke is, "I stayed in the chambers sir, because the main building was demolished six years ago". A less adroit response would mean an obvious impostor who would be blackballed at once.
Sense of irony
All stories are laced with a fine sense of irony, and a willingness to debunk the pomposity and self-seeking ways of bureaucracy. Nourished by a spirit of friendly indulgence and warmth of a genuine Indophile, the inexpensive paperback would make ideal travel reading.
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