FASHION
'About harmony'
Renato Balestra (first row centre) ... thinks of the international woman.
"We all want peace and happiness. So, why not express it through our clothes?" asks Renato Balestra, a familiar name in the fashion world. His body-hugging lines, soft fabrics, rich colours, intricate workmanship are in demand by celebrities around the globe. This Italian designer has a great affinity for Asian fabrics, weaves, craftsmanship, which he displayed in Bangkok recently when he exhibited his exquisite new collection at the famed Oriental Hotel. Nineteen of his 90-piece collection were made of Thai mudmee silk. In an exclusive interview with LEKHA J. SHANKAR, Balestra said he was vastly influenced by India and was excited by his recent trip there. Excerpts:
WHERE do you get the inspiration for your designs from?
It all starts with emotion. I'm a painter. I also love music and am a trained pianist. So I work by emotion. When I get inspired I can design very fast. Like I drew an entire Collection on a flight to Rome. I did not have paper and drew it all out on a sick-bag cover! I like to be inventive. I pick from everywhere and re-invent everything.
Do you have any favourite fabrics?
Well, I pick them from around the world. But I love soft fabrics that dance around the body, like chiffon. I mix and match colours, hand-paint on them, embellish with embroidery, stone-work, glitter. An artiste has to be creative.
Is creativity the most important quality for a successful designer?
You need talent, creativity, and also the skills to communicate and promote your designs.
What are the trends in fashion today?
Well, the navel was once in fashion, then the nipple, then, stomach. Now, it's the "back". I don't like over-exposure myself. Clothes should intrigue. For the same reason I don't like minimalist outfits. Why spend so much to wear so little? I like sexy clothes of course but they should not be vulgarised.
Trouser suits have always been popular with me and today they look graceful and feminine with embroidery. The only woman who looked good in a male suit was Marlene Dietrich.
Who, in your opinion, is the best-dressed woman in the celebrity circuit today?
The woman who can be the most elegantly dressed and also the most lousily dressed today is Julia Roberts! She does not have perfect features but she has charisma. Elegance has to come from within. It's not just about wearing wonderful clothes but wearing the right clothes for the right occasion.
What do you think is special about Asian women?
The colours for Asian women are different. I would never do green for them. They have good skins, dark eyes, are more feminine and gracious. Indian women are beautiful! However when I design I don't think of East or West but the international woman.
Who, in your opinion, is the best dressed man?
I think the man who looks good in both jeans and black tie is Prince William.
What about Princess Diana?
She had a good dress sense but not 100 per cent.
Do you enjoy designing for men or women?
I have 42 collections for men and women and enjoy designing for both.
Men are as much peacocks today as women! We live in an era when both men and women have become so conscious of their bodies.
Have you designed for many celebrities?
Yes, for First Ladies, Heads of State, Royalty, movie stars.
What are your own personal tastes like?
I like to be simple but elegant. I'm easy but I dress according to the occasion. I love blue and have created a special sapphire-coloured "Ballestra Blue" shade. In many places they call me the "Man in Blue"! I also love Asian silks and have at least 20 jackets made of Thai silk! I have two homes in Florida and Rome .In Florida I'm casual in shorts and T-shirt because of the warm weather. Rome is more formal.
What's your lifestyle like?
Very disciplined, even though I travel a lot. I "work out" every day, don't accept parties, eat health food (though I have a weakness for Indian food). The only concession I give myself is wine.
What are your other interests?
I paint, I love the opera. My present passion is my TV shows that have become extremely popular. I did 90 shows last year and am starting a new programme this year. I always like to challenge myself and in my last TV show I sang with a well-known soprano singer! I also have a passion for travelling and understanding different peoples and cultures. I love Asia, including Thailand and India. I've been to Malaysia, Lebanon, the Middle East.
What do you like about India?
Its culture, traditions, colours, silks. The philosophy of India is inspiring and I read a lot of books on Hindu philosophy. I've been all around India except the Southern part. I hear Kerala is beautiful! I think the sari is a very graceful outfit. Three years back I did a collection that was inspired by the sari, with a lot of embroidery and they draped it in a special manner like the sari.
What role does fashion play in society today?
We live in difficult times and can cheer ourselves up through our clothes.
Colours can help to spread a mood of optimism, which is why I play around a lot with colours. I think black has been wrongly used in fashion for happy occasions like weddings. On a rainy day I think one should wear red! Fashion is about beauty, elegance, harmony. We all want peace and happiness — so, why not express it through our clothes?
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