POSTCARD FROM PERU
Inside the lost city of the Incas
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The mystery, and the breathtaking beauty, of the abandoned capital of the Incas continue to charm visitors to Machu Picchu.
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Photo: D.K. Bhaskar
Overpowering majesty: Machu Picchu with Huayna Picchu in the background.
MY plans of reaching Machu Picchu, the famous ruins of the Incas and one of the most frequented wonders of the world, at the first stroke of dawn were dented by a heavy downpour. At half past eight, I set out on my adventure regardless. Rainwater was gushing down the hill tracts and a river could be heard thundering nearby. A cool breeze brushed past the valley and had the ferns and leaves swaying along the mountainside.
Spectacular view
A 30 minutes' bus drive zigzagged up a 2,000 feet high mountain amidst the most spectacular views. Upon arriving at a checkpoint, an unforeseen difficulty awaited me as I was stopped from carrying my photographic paraphernalia. "What a shame", I mused! The most photographed place perhaps in the whole of Peru had strange rules and restrictions with regard to the amount of photographic equipment one could carry! A rude shock awaited me as a security guard demanded a special permit to carry two cameras. I put on my persuasive hat and argued for some length of time and finally common sense prevailed over chaos. Phew!
Without wasting any more time, I quickly cleared additional security requirements and was headed straight towards the spectacular ruins of the Incas. Legend has it that just before the Spanish conquest, Machu Picchu was mysteriously abandoned and that too when it was still in its golden age. "The lost city of the Incas" remained forgotten for the next 400 years. In the year 1911, Hiram Bingham, an explorer from Yale University, "rediscovered" it and started the reclamation process. I felt strange vibes about this fabulous place and had my imagination traverse back a few hundred years in history.
The first sight of this magnificent landscape totally captivates you with its clay and stone architecture, spotlessly clean surroundings and a carpet of lush green vegetation. The towering mountain ranges of Putukusi, Huayna Picchu and Wyna Picchu confer an unusual dimension to the gorgeous architecture. Built over carefully chiselled stone blocks, the ruins bear testimony to the intricate engineering skills of the Incas. Machu Picchu comprises roughly around two hundred temples, storage facilities, and houses.
A variety of attractions
Machu Picchu not only attracts explorers but also captures the fascination of botanists, geologists, archaeologists and romantic couples too. The overpowering majesty of the mountains is a treat to nature enthusiasts and adventure lovers. Machu Picchu stands 2,430 m above sea level, in the middle of a tropical mountain forest, in an extraordinarily beautiful setting. It was probably the most amazing urban creation of the Inca Empire at that height; its giant walls, terraces and ramps seem as if they have been cut naturally in the continuous rock escarpments. This natural setting, on the eastern slopes of the Andes, encompasses the upper Amazon basin with its rich diversity of flora and fauna.
The name "Machu Picchu" comes simply from its geography. It literally means "old peak", just as "Huayna Picchu" is "young peak". The more accurate translation relates, however, to the concept of size, with Machu Picchu as the "bigger peak" and Huayna Picchu, the "smaller peak".
The vegetation surrounding this historic place is equally astounding. The entire area is called as the Machu Picchu sanctuary and is home to some spectacular bird life. Just within the sanctuary, one can identify more than 125 species of birds. As I walked past the ruins of the complex, birds of varied hues and colours and llamas moved past unhurriedly. I was lucky to spot a critically endangered bird species named sword-billed humming bird as I walked down the delicate stone steps from Huayna Picchu.
Another viewpoint to get a spectacular sight of Machu Picchu is from the sun gate, also called as Intipuncu. Most hikers from the Inca trail wake up early on the last day of their hiking programme and come to this gate before sunrise to get the first glimpse of the sun rays lighting up the stone ruins. Most often, the clouds moving briskly over the complex confer painting like effects on the incredible landscape.
Popular trek
One of the most popular trekking routes in the world is the four-day trek to reach the site of Machu Pichu. It is worth every pain in the bones and muscles. Beginning from the 82nd kilometre of this incredible trek, one gets to see glorious landscapes interlaced with a superb diversity of flora and fauna, including orchids, pumas, spectacled bears, mountain cats and a variety of birds, from the Andean condors to the Inca Wren.
The citadel of Machu Picchu is open to visitors from 6 a.m. to 5 p.m. Some distant areas, such as Huayna Picchu, close earlier (at 3 p.m.), and you must register when you climb this peak. Climbing takes about an hour depending on the ability to climb. It is quite disappointing that visitors are not allowed to stay back to witness the sunset from the ruins for safety reasons. However, if you set your imagination free and envisage tall mountains consuming the burning ambers of the setting sun from the middle of an abandoned city, you will see my point.
Towards the east, 800 m away from Aguas Calientes are the famous thermal waters which give their name to this town. They are sulphur springs of varying temperatures springing from the rocky soil. The small sleepy town itself is entirely dependent on tourism. Plenty of small-time sellers depend on the sale of artefacts and handicrafts for their livelihood. Visiting Mandor Waterfalls is also an unforgettable adventure. It is in an area of lush forest surrounding the town of Machu Picchu. The Huayna Picchu, the pyramidal mountain across from Machu Picchu and slightly above the citadel, has many archaeological sites.
The urge to go back
In all, Machu Picchu is a must-see destination. The tall mountains surrounding the majestic ruins add a mystical dimension to this historic marvel. I wonder how much more commanding the place must have been when it was at its golden peak. Clearly the mystery about this place continues to charm thousands of tourists who set foot on the sacred land of the Incas. Before I visited Machu Picchu, my aim was to go there personally to see the wonder of the world. Now that I have been there, my only remaining ambition is to go back and figure out the missing links in our knowledge of this wonder. Machu Picchu anybody?
D.K. BHASKAR
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