FOOTLOOSE
European sojourn
KISHORE IYENGAR
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Rediscover the romance of rail journey on some fabulous trains.
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Photo: Kishore Iyengar
Serene: The red-tiled rooftops of Bern.
THE magnificent Gare du Lyon rail station in the heart of Paris was the starting point of my rail adventure in Europe. My seat on the first class super fast Rail Europe-SNCF TGV coach was beside wide glass windows that offered me uninterrupted views of the scenery zipping past. The TGV (Trains a Grand Vitesse — trains of great speed) is the pride of France and has sleek, steel grey and warm interiors with contrasts in brilliant red upholstery seating lending a sophisticated chic to my ultra-smooth, under-three-hours ride to Lausanne in Switzerland.
Picture postcard town
We swept through verdant vineyards of Burgundy into the cooler climes of Alpine Switzerland, as I relished a fine 2000 Haute Cotes de Beaune Pinot Noir red wine at the bright and svelte TGV cafeteria. Lausanne is a pretty town on the picturesque Lake Geneva with a medieval past and the Baroque designed monuments of the Dukes of Savoy.
My hop-skip-and-jump rail schedule on the fantastic Rail Europe-Swiss Rail System was with my first lap from Lausanne to Montreux, then winding through narrow rows of Swiss vineyards offering stupendous views of Lake Geneva, onto the fantastic Goldenpass Panorama Rail with its splendidly bright furnished first class coupes and glass top roofs. The clouds seemed to descend the Alpine reaches contrasted with unbelievable countryside panoramas. Changing trains in little Zweissimen, further on to Spiez and finally to the Swiss capital Bern for a day's sightseeing. Bern is easy to relate to. Old graceful spires, stone monuments, laid-back cafes, florists, couturiers, art galleries, quaint statuettes and fountains, all visited by colourful red trams and buses and easy going folk add a kind of enhanced energy to the whole town. The peninsula forking the city into two distinct quarters with typically Bernese tiled rooftops is a pretty sight from atop the main bridge near the Old Tram Terminal, now a chic and contemporary brewery restaurant. On my way back to the station down the main street near the clock tower, I looked up the early home of the scientific fraternity's grand old genius, Dr. Albert Einstein.
I departed Lausanne through Geneva on the speed blazer, the TGV which does in excess of 250 miles per hour, to the beautiful town of Montpellier in France's Languedoc Region. My excellent lunch of fresh smoked salmon, Penne Arabiata and Gambas in truffle oil was served with immaculate on-board service and courtesy.
Montpellier is one of the prettier cities in France, the Place de la Comedie a showcase of spirited young people in their stats-revealing gear, musicians composing jazz bits, giant clowns chasing little squealers and imposing 17th century architecture in illuminated radiance.
Onward to Spain
The Spanish Talgo connection took me in four hours south to Barcelona in Spain along grand coastal stretches and a thrilling sunset. The first class was occupied by chatty and friendly Spaniards, as I enjoyed the romance of the fading light on the cliffs of the Mediterranean shoreline. From Barcelona's marvellous Baroque-neo classical Sants station I reached ApartHotel Citadines Barcelona Ramblas in the heart of the city.
The Plaza Catalunya and the surrounding district is a lively canvas of activity with that talented architect Antoni Gaudi's art nouveau creations. In the narrow cobbled lanes, lovers in exploring clasps seemed oblivious of the fading summer heat and the revellers who were trudging the lanes shopping and laughing.
I can never forget Spain's exclusive Renfe rail journey on the Rail Europe route to Madrid's grand Atocha station. Immediately on departure, I was served a finely chilled Cava from the Pere Ventura Cellars, almonds, a fabulously light two-course meal with select Spanish wines that settled me into a skittish mood all the way to the Spanish capital. It was the height of matchless service and mind-stilling comfort with professional efficiency.
Total dependability
A short half-hour magnetic ride on Renfe's super-speed cockpit travel displayed the digital technology of long distance control and the dependable safety of these trains into medieval Toledo. Here, the Old Jewish Synagogue and the Cathedral with its outstanding stone and marble sculpted treasures were fascinating visits. Lunch was typically Spanish, with plenty of local delicacies. Great hospitality and some vintage Rioja Crianza wine concluded a great day.
On the Gran Classe of the Emperor of all Spanish rail travel, the business-cum-leisure train Elipsos Trenhotel, overnight through the Pyrenees to Paris, the comfortable individual coupes with modern amenities were inviting and pampering. I cherished the eclectic dining with champagne, the fine wines of Penedes and crisp three-course specialities that concluded my romantic European rail sojourn.
Relishing an after-dinner cognac, I reminisced about this wonderful first class rail experience. Paris' Austerlitz station, 8.40 a.m. the next day. It was indeed an unforgettable ride. Au Revoir.
Quickfacts
Rail Europe, in collaboration with the SNCF French Railways and the Swiss Rail System offers lucrative deals on high-end leisure journeys through its wide network in France, Switzerland, Spain, and many other partner European countries. Punctual timing, impeccable service, ultra-modern amenities, safety and exceptionally comfortable travel are its hallmarks.
For more information log onto www.raileurope.com
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