POSTCARD FROM THE STONEHENGE
Time's rhythm
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Stark and simple, The Stonehenge is actually a calendar in stone.
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While studying the configuration of the stones the mysticism of the place evaporates and its scientific temperament gets revealed.
PHOTO: SADHANA RAO
TRACKING CELESTIAL PASSAGES: The Stonehenge.
A CURIOUS alignment of stones, standing amidst acres and acres of grassy fields; that is Stonehenge for you. The stones and the landscape have an eremitical solitariness enshrouding them. Architecturally, the Stonehenge lacks decorative flourish. Yet, for all its simplicity, its original masters left behind a template that was an engineering feat and immense in scale (some of the stones are among the largest in Britain).
The winds merged with the scent of the mud as we walked towards Stonehenge. The stones, the dug trenches, the clumps of earth appeared like palimpsests of an era and centuries gone by. The Stonehenge has lent itself to a great deal of enquiry as to its purpose. Was it a burial mound? Was it a temple? Or an observatory to track the sunrise and sunset; the ultimate bookends of a day...
Pre-historic aura
Amesbury (in the district of Wiltshire in the U.K.), where the Stonehenge is situated, is an area rich in startling archaeological discoveries. The Stonehenge and its surroundings have the unmistakable stamp of a pre-historic site with lingering shadows of its paramountcy. One realises that one is seeing representative works of prehistoric designers. The architectural dialogue is totally unfamiliar and different and the character of The Stonehenge is elaborately creased in layers of mysticism and enigma. You are left pondering whether the place has deep ontological significance.
The Stonehenge is definitely one of the oldest inhabitants of the Earth and was built in several phases, the construction spanning from approximately 3000 B.C. to 1600 B.C. What we see today are the remains of the final arrangement composed between 2280 B.C. and 1930 B.C. The Sarsen stones (a hard sandstone from Wiltshire), and the Blue stones (brought in all the way from Wales), have had wind, rain and sun imprint signatures of their impact on the texture. Some of the slabs of stones have withered and disintegrated. The elderly stones that still remain standing in steadfast loyalty have but a few peers left in the world; the stones of the pyramids of Giza and those of Petra. The audio guide (which has a rather sensitive script) gives a touching elucidation of the stone's life; their associations, affirmations, and moments lived. Instinct and intellect are held captive, and one almost believes that the stones are for real.
Stone calendar
Standing at the main threshold of the Stonehenge, one can clearly see the entrance and the stones are aligned in a complex mathematical and geometric format. The stones are placed with a precision of purpose. It is while studying the configuration of the stones that the mysticism of the place evaporates and The Stonehenge's scientific temperament gets revealed. The main entrance structure is carefully oriented to face the mid-summer sunrise in one direction and the mid-winter sunset in the opposite direction. Beyond the entrance, the sand stones and the blue stones are arrayed in four concentric settings; two circles and two horse-shoe shapes. The important stones are given names like Heel, Stone and Altar Stone. Through the size and placement of the stones, the ancient builders tracked the summer and winter solstices, "the rhythm of months and seasons". "A calendar in stone".
This indigenous observatory put in a number of active years of service. To link man's relationship with the universe, to join the dots of occurrences in various parts of the earth. Now in its requiem, it still remains a significant milepost in the journey of science.
Totem of faith
The Stonehenge today stands insulated, on a separate plane of existence; all its worldly functions duly discharged. In its retirement, it is viewed as a repository of revered ancient systems, a sun temple; a totem of faith. The road to the Stonehenge has seen an increase in traffic, symbolic of a world out to connect with places of belief and faith. Tourism and crowds have been rather kind to the Stonehenge, not having marred its look. Thanks to the efforts of the Keepers of Stonehenge (English Heritage and others), the pit-stop (for petrol, pizza and coke) has been kept at a distance of 10 miles. On site there is a makeshift souvenir shop and on a cold day you may get some tea. Since it was a cold day we did get tea, and an early sunset to watch, in a place which was built to anticipate and study the rising and setting points of the sun .The rays of light followed their own trajectory on the grid of stones within the empty spaces between the stone structures. The shadow play bouncing against the algorithm of stones under the open skies was indeed one of the most spectacular Sun dances that we had seen. After the spontaneous show I was favourably inclined to the doctrines of pantheism.
Postscript
Very recently, a village (Durington Walls) with several houses was discovered a few miles away from The Stonehenge. Early studies reveal that these were the homes of the early settlers of the Stonehenge. Archaeologists feel that the area of the Stonehenge is a long visual library... . There are always new stories to discover, to contemplate, to put before the world. Its places like the Stonehenge where the linkage chain of the past, present and the future get a coherent form.
SADHANA RAO
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