Cultural tourism
Call of the hills
ARCHANA AND PRABAKAR VENKATARAMAN
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History, culture and nature — there is an interesting mixture of all the three at Khonoma in Nagaland.
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Photos: Archana and Prabakar Venkataraman
Blending in: Khonoma village
WHAT does one look for in a tourist destination? The buzzword now is nature. There is still much interest in cultures. History also has its own charm. How about a grand mix of all the three? Khonoma, which overlooks one of the most scenic spots in Na
galand, is also a fount of tribal wisdom and takes pride in its valorous past!
Located 20 km west of Kohima, Khonoma supports a predominantly agrarian population. Typical of an Angami tribal village, Khonoma runs along a ridge. It extends from the terraced rice fields immediately beneath the ridge all the way southwards till the Manipuri border district of Senapati. Khonoma’s reputation is partly as a warrior village. They put up the fiercest resistance to the advance of the East India Company in the 1830s and the intense “Battle of Khonoma” in 1880 culminated in the siege of the Angami village followed by a treaty. Christianity was introduced by the American missionaries and Khonoma is said to have produced the best doctors, musicians and professionals in Nagaland. Education is held in great respect here and the village falls to pin-drop silence during the exam times.
Green venture
The alder trees
The Union Ministry of Tourism and Culture promotes eco-tourism in Khonoma through the Khonoma Green Village Project (KGVP), initiated by the villagers in collaboration with the Centre for Environment Education. Given that hunting is a Naga tradition a
nd a way of bringing food home, the decision of the Village Council of Khonoma to ban hunting in 1998 altogether shows the villagers’ commitment.
The Khonoma Nature Conservation and Tragopan Sanctuary was set up to conserve the rare Blyth’s Tragopan, an endangered pheasant and the State bird of Nagaland. The sanctuary is also an ideal place for trekking, enjoying nature and doing research. Khonoma is rich in birds, primates, reptiles, amphibians, orchids, medicinal plants and many rare flora and fauna. Most of these have been documented as part of the Green Village initiative. Our birding guide promised 75-110 species in one day and would have met that mark quite easily!
Farming techniques, which are completely manual, do not employ beast of labour or machinery. The village is self-sufficient from the yields from rice crop and the produce depends more on available labour than on the land in possession. People grow their own vegetables and fruits. Alder trees lining the terraced cultivation land not only help prevent soil erosion but also serve as high quality firewood. The villagers have mastered the art of growing and pollarding alder, reducing the pressure on the forest.
Community concept
At the heart of realising and sustaining the initiative is a tribal community living concept called “Age Groups”. At around nine-10 years, a child joins an age group hosted by a village superior, referred thereon as the “Father”. Under his tutelage and staying in a dormitory (called “Morung”), the youth engage in physical training, sports, moral and social education, preparation for warfare, singing, dancing and folklores. There is always a healthy competition among the age groups while showcasing each other’s skills and talent. A stroke of genius put this healthy competition to work in the Green Village initiative. Each age group competes and takes pride in its role in maintaining hygiene, cleanliness, beautification of roads, ensuring water supply and sewage systems.
Ancient ways
Out of the many interesting things, the concept of “Feasts of Merit” is the most fascinating. It is an utmost honour to give a feast of merit — host a feast for the whole village. The person has to give away all the wealth, keeping only a small house, farming equipment and a pair of mithun (a cross between a bison and a cow) in the stable. When one gives a feast of merit, he is worthy of adorning his headgear with the feathers of a hornbill (a most revered bird am
ong tribals). When a person offers seven such feasts of merit, he is eligible to build a pheku and have it named after him. A pheku is a village meeting place where all important decisions are taken or important even
ts happen. A man has to have his wife beside him when he is conferred the eligibility to build a pheku. A person who builds five phekus can have his own fishing tank; no one can fish there without his permission. In
other words, he influences the village economy directly. In Khonoma’s 400-year history, only one person has built a pheku and a private fishing tank.
Stone monuments are found all over the village, commemorating achievements during war or regular social life. The kuda, or fort built of stones, is maintained in good condition. The khels or the village gates are
An Angami woman with child.
places of great importance. The morungs are defunct now, but there is an effort to resurrect them. A walking trail down the village takes you through all these and interesting stories unfold at every corner. Once we jumped as a Striped
Rock Owl peered at us from a careless corner!
Something for everybody
The Dzoukou valley, Dzuelekie village, the Tragopan sanctuary, the numerous hills and caves have much to offer to the avid trekker, naturalist or researcher. The world’s tallest rhododendron tree, recorded in the Guinness Book of R
ecords is in Mt. Japfu of Khonoma district, in the Dzoukou region which is a trekkers’ paradise. Camping sites are available at convenient places and the natural caves abundant here are worth exploring.
If birding is on your agenda, warblers, thrushes, forktails are everywhere; the call of the partridges echoes across the valley all the time, a khaleej pheasant may suddenly dart across your path! Our best moment was when a pygmy wren popped right in front of us, stared confusedly at us for a few seconds, and then disappeared into thin air!
Factfile
Getting there: By road 23 km from Kohima. The nearest railway station is Dimapur (73km) and the nearest airport, Dimapur, is connected from Delhi, Kolkata and Guwahati
Facilities: Airtel and BSNL cell connections might work at certain places in the village. The nearest bank is in Kohima, connected by bus four times a day. Home stay is being encouraged. Inform in advance if you are a vegetarian. You are not allowed to move around in the village without a guide.
Requirements: Indian nationals need an Inner Line Permit (ILP) obtainable from the Nagaland House at Kohima, Dimapur, Guwahati or Shillong. A group of four or more foreign tourists can obtain a Restricted Area Permit (RAP), for a period of 10days and can be extended later.
Contact Mr. Angulie at anguliemeyase@yahoo.com You can also reach him at: 9436071046 or 0370-2340012.
The best time to visit is between October and April. Winters can be extremely cold. Bring proper winter clothes. If you visit during the rainy season, be prepared to face the harshest weather. Khonoma’s forests are thick and dense – a machete can be very helpful. The treks are moderate to very difficult. Equip yourselves appropriately.
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