TIME OUT
Magic Tess
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From Van Diemen’s Island to Tasmania, it’s been a breathtaking transition from penal hellhole to tourist paradise. TANUSHREE PODDER
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Photo: Tanushree Podder
Mystical ambience: The blue-green waters of Tasmania.
IT is known as the Island of Rejuvenation. With the lush green forests, winding rivers and pristine, pure air, it is an apt description. The drive from the airport to the city across the countryside, with its vast fields and dry meadows, brought to m
y mind the news about Australia’s prolonged drought. It has not rained enough in the last few years. The effects of the rain-deficiency are quite evident, yet the lush green rainforests in the upper reaches of the island are stunning enough to make one forget that fact.
Tasmania is the only island State of Australia. It is also the first one to have been discovered by Abel Tasman on November 24, 1642. He named it Anthoonij van Diemenslandt, after his sponsor, the Governor of the Dutch East Indies. Since it was quite a mouthful, the British shortened the name to Van Diemen’s Island. The name was again changed to Tasmania, after the name of its discoverer, in 1856.
A feared destination
The British established the first penal settlement in the island in 1803. They brought in shiploads of convicts, for crimes ranging from the petty to the serious. Along with the convicts came their guards. The convicts worked under the hard taskmasters to develop the basic infrastructure of the island. Harsh conditions existed in the penal colonies and other convict-based settlements in Van Diemen’s Land. Port Arthur was one of the worst ones where the prisoners toiled under the watchful eyes of ferocious dogs and guards. The shark infested waters on three sides made the prison inescapable. At the time it was the most feared destination for the convicts of Britain. The parallels between the Cellular Jail and the Jail at Port Arthur are unmistakable. The Separate Prison (sometimes known as The Model Prison) was completed in 1853 and extended in 1855. The 80-cell prison was built in the shape of a cross with radial exercise yards around a central hall and chapel. A punishment called “Silent System” was implemented in the building. The prisoners were hooded and made to stay silent; this was supposed to allow time for the prisoner to reflect upon the actions which had brought him there.
It took many decades to wipe out the terrible image the island had acquired. The parliamentary system that came to power in 1856, in a bid to erase the images, changed the name of the island to Tasmania. With the change of name came the attempts to alter everything around the island which was blessed with mild temperate climate, abundance of natural resources and a crisp pure air. The transition from a hellhole to haven didn’t happen in a day. It took centuries.
Today, Tasmania is a magical island that brings in thousands of people for holidaying from across the world.
I was booked in the Federal Hotel which stands on the sea front with a lovely view of the dazzling blue-green waters. Dumping my baggage in the room, I rushed out for the sea cruise that would take me to the Wine Glass Bay. The sea was tranquil as we boarded the boat at the Freycinet National Park bay. The Wine Glass Bay, named so because of its shape, was a sweep of pure white sand around the incredibly turquoise waters. It is said that the sealers of the ancient times had killed so many seals in the bay that the water had turned crimson and the wine glass seemed to be filled with red wine. The surrounding pink granite hills fall straight to the sea, lending a mystical ambience to the place. A fleet of boats caught my attention and I wondered what they were doing in the sea. The guide then told us that they were returning from Hobart, where a festival of boats had just ended. There were some beautiful ancient looking ones and I caught a couple of them in my camera.
Just as I had begun to enjoy my cruise and got brave enough to adopt a Titanic-inspired pose on the deck, I noted the sudden change in the mood of the waves which were getting more turbulent each minute. The boat began rocking dangerously and the passengers had to hold on tight to the rails. The wind velocity grew at an alarming rate while large sea waves tossed the boat around like a toy. As we returned to the bay, I learnt that the weather had changed quite suddenly and the next cruise had been called off.
Local flavour
The next morning I visited the Salamanca market across the Square. Each Saturday morning the Square transforms itself into a vibrant shopping area with hundreds of stalls set up all along the park. These stalls sell almost everything, from hats, souvenirs, jewellery, puppets and clothes to fruits, vegetables and food. Fiddlers, singers and artists showcase their talents and hundreds of tourists flock the area. The entire area wore a festive look with the music and a multitude of colours. Across the park, bagpipers had begun playing music while children danced to the tune. I shopped for trinkets and local fare, trying out my bargaining skills.
The hours flew and it was time for sampling the gourmet offerings across the bay. The fabulous spread of breads, delicious crayfish served with aromatic herbs and the crisp salad had me salivating and I began gobbling down the fare with a glassful of white wine. I ended the meal with a generous helping of gelato served with fruits. Energised after the gastronomic indulgence, I made my way to the Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens. It was abloom with flowers of all hues and kinds. Teals and ducks swam lazily along the lotus pond, birds twittered teasingly from the tall trees around me. The entire environment worked as instant rejuvenation therapy and I walked out after shedding my fatigue and stress. There were still so many things to be covered in the next two days.
The fruit circuit
Tasmania is currently on an organic farming binge and everything that grows is carefully nurtured without using any insecticide or pesticide. My first halt at the Sorell Fruit Farm was a rewarding one. Bob Hardy, the 60-plus gentleman, introduced me to the vast repertoire on his 12-acre farm. There were all kinds of berries, from Boysenberries, Loganberries, raspberries, sylvan berries to strawberries and Tayberries. He plucked out a few luscious ones for me to sample. His beautiful store sells all kinds of jams and preserves while his wife Elaine rustles up lip smacking fare for the visitors. From Bob’s farm to Kate’s was a few kilometres away and once again I was offered heavenly tasting ice-cream made out of freshly plucked strawberries. Frankly speaking, I have never eaten so much strawberry as I did in the few hours there. The drive back to the hotel along the sea was a silent one as I stared dreamily out of the window, gazing at the far away forests across the blue waters.
My visit was coming to an end although I still had to finish my trip to the Tahune Nature Park but that is another story. True to its name, Tasmania, called Tess by Australians, had worked its magic on me. I had arrived as an exhausted traveller but left it feeling rejuvenated.
Quickfacts
Getting there: One could either go by air from Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide or Canberra or by sea from Melbourne to reach Tasmania. Two superfast ships — Spirit of Tasmania I and Spirit of Tasmania II — operate overnight crossings, with additional day-time crossings during peak summer periods.
For more information for travelling by sea log on to www.spiritoftasmania.com.au
Retail therapy: don’t forget to buy the organic jams, chutneys and preserves from Tasmania. The Salamanca market is a nice place to pick up souvenirs from.
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