TIME OUT
Island in the sun
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Once considered a sacred place, Kangaroo Island, off the coast of South Australia, is a great place to watch a variety of animals in their natural habitat. RANJITA BISWAS
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Photos: Ranjita Biswas
Sacred stones: The Remarkable Rocks
Mainland aborigines called it Karta, island of the dead. Today we know it as Kangaroo Island, lying 15 km from South Australia’s coastline. Kangaroo Island was separated from the Australian mainland about 10,000 years ago. Unlike in most other
parts of the continent, you will not find aborigine settlements here, though recent researches show evidence of human habitation some 16,000 years ago. But European settlers who landed here in the early 19th century found it uninhabited. The first recorded “outsider” to the desolate island was Captain Flinders sailing the “HMS Investigator” in 1802.
Island history
Why did people, if anyone had lived here, abandon the island? Many theories prevail but referring to Josephine Flood’s book Archaeology of the Dreamtime, our articulate tour guide Terry Pearce told us that the island was also
regarded as a sacred place by the aborigines. This is where, according to folklore, the aborigines’ ancestor Ngurunderi made preparations to cross over to the spirit world after mourning the death of his two wives. His people believed that after death, the soul came to this island to rest before departing to the other world. Their beliefs are symbolised by a rock formation, craggily rising to the sun amidst the deep blue ocean water, which the European settlers named “Remarkable Rocks”, probably lacking better words to describe its majestic profile.
A different world
Even today, though it is only a 30-minute ride to the tiny Kingscote airport from the bustling city of Adelaide by a small Regional Express plane, it strikes the visitor as a whole new world. It is so pristine with not a soul in sight for miles that it seems to be caught in a time warp. But, the smooth roads, the excellent facilities and modern accommodation place it firmly in this age. The island is the third largest in Australia with a population of only 4,300.
The biggest attraction of Kangaroo Island is viewing wildlife in their natural habitat. Seals, Koalas, Porcupine-like Echidnas wandering in search of insects, Kangaroos, Goannas, Wallabies, Penguins and a variety of birds are just some of them.
First, we headed to meet the seals at Seal Bay. Visitors have to be accompanied by tour guides like Terry (there are various licensed private operators like his “Kangaroo Island Odysseys”). These guides, offering personalised service, are also very knowledgeable about local flora and fauna, folklores, conservation efforts, etc.
Keeping the distance
As we went down to the sea beach to observe Australian sea lions basking in the sun, our friend told us not to go too near. A human figure is not so intimidating, size wise, to the average sea lion and a strange figure could invite attacks. From a safe distance they looked harmless enough as they curled up, lay still or looked up to the sky for interminable hours, “Doing Yoga”(Terry’s words, not mine). Well, they were tired because for the last three days or so they had been constantly swimming, diving for fishes and also carrying food to the babies left behind in the sand. The island is also home to New Zealand Fur Sea Lion.
Australian sea lions.
A quick tour of a nearby park at Hanson Bay to spot Koalas, not too difficult a task as they sleep most of the time anyway, and then we were off to our picnic lunch venue in the bush land of the Flinders Chase National Park. By the time we made a round of the Visitor Centre to freshen up and buy some souvenirs to take back home, the lunch table was ready in the wooden enclave meant for groups like us. A green table cloth covered the bare wooden table; matching napkins, fresh fruits, salads, mashed potatoes, crackers, breads, not to forget good Australian wine, or juice if you like, were laid out by Terry and he had donned an apron and was frying succulent Whiting fish, the best table fish available in Australia, we were assured. A guide packs everything in the car including biscuits and hot water for tea, later for the next interlude, as he goes to meet the visitors at the airport. However, if one prefers a special diet, vegetarian for example, prior information is advisable. As soon as we finished eating, everything, from saucers to spoons to bottles, was stored in its designated place and we were ready to move again. Efficiency!
Deceptive calm
The sea looked impossibly blue as we went to meet the New Zealand Fur sea lions at the Cape du Couedic. In the distance, the twin islands, named picturesquely as Casuarina Islets by French explorers who had arrived almost simultaneously with the British, seemed serene enough. But looks can be deceptive. As we walked down the wooden boardwalk right to the bottom point, the sea looked anything but tame as the waves broke violently against the craggy shoreline. Well, in 160 years there have been 70 shipwrecks here, the last being in 1996 which did not have any crew. Today there are three light houses to warn the seafarer. Yet, down there at Admirals Arch, a spectacular cave- like nook canopied by stalactites–like formation, it was cool and cosy and we did see the brown fur sea lions slithering down the sides of the rocks.
Majestic rocks
The last stop before we had to make it back to the airport was, of course, the Remarkable Rocks. Indeed, from the distance they looked remarkable; from one angle the formation looked like the beak of an eagle, from another like the trunk of an elephant. One could well understand why the aborigines held them so sacred. A sense of awe at the sight of these granite boulders worshipping the sky gripped us. We could imagine how they would look as the morning sun touched them at dawn or in the evening when the sun bid a final goodbye, washing them in a golden light. Alas! We did not have the luxury of time to wait and watch and listen to the even-song. The little plane was waiting to take us back to the city lights.
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