POSTCARD FROM WYOMING
This devil is a delight
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Whether you choose to go by the myth surrounding the Devils Tower or the scientific explanation, it never fails to evoke your sense of awe and wonder.
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Photo: Mahesh Mehendale
Off the beaten track: The Devils Tower.
Most visitors to the United States confine themselves to the usual tourist spots located on the Eastern and Western coasts of the country. But the entire region of Wyoming, Montana, and South Dakota has numerous interesting geological formations that
are believed to be several millions years old. The Devils Tower in northeastern Wyoming is one such attraction.
Towering monolith
Located on the banks of the now scarce Belle Fourche River, this gigantic rocky stump rises over 1,200 feet above the river in an almost perpendicular fashion. From its base, it rises to 867 feet with a diameter of over 1,000 feet at its base. The top is tear-drop shaped and is large enough to cover a large football field. The fact that there are not many high mountains in the immediate vicinity makes this geological wonder all the more intriguing. Movie-buffs might recollect that this tower’s mystical magnificence was captured in Steven Spielberg’s science fiction movie, “Close Encounters of the Third Kind”.
Recognised as the first national monument of the United States of America by President Roosevelt in 1906, it has become a Mecca to enthusiasts of all kinds. Regular tourists come to marvel at its mystical beauty and wonder “how did it come up?” Scientists come to research the origins of this monolith and surrounding geology and rock climbers flock to experience the daring thrills of free crack climbing. The tower is considered a sacred site by the native Indian tribes and this is obvious from the numerous prayer shawls and sacred bundles that are tied to the trees surrounding the tower. The month of June is considered to be sacred by the native Indians as it coincides with the summer solstice and climbing the tower during this period is discouraged as it might interfere with the native ceremonies conducted such as the pipe ceremonies and the sun dances.
According to myth
In fact, according to ancient legend, the tower was called the Mateo Tepee or the Bear’s Lodge by the native Indians. It is believed that the rock formation emerged millions of years ago when seven sisters were trying to flee their brother who had transformed himself into a bear. In order to save themselves, the sisters climbed a tree stump which raised itself higher and higher to prevent the bear from harming the sisters. This tree stump became the giant rocky formation that we see today. The seven sisters are believed to have been transformed into the seven stars of the Pleiades.
Scientists have gathered geological evidence over the years which indicate that the Devils Tower originated over 60 million years ago when igneous material forced its way into the layer of sedimentary rocks and cooled underground, contracting and fracturing into columns with four to six sides. However, the process of natural erosion is said to have exposed the tower only one or two million years ago.
Challenging climb
Casual visitors to the Devils Tower are likely to be struck with awe by the rock climbing challenge that the tower holds out. In fact, as early as July 4, 1893, William Rogers, with the assistance of his fellow rancher Willard Ripley, became the first man to climb the tower. He accomplished this daring feat by building a 350 feet high “ladder” by inserting wooden pegs in the vertical cracks of the columnar structure of the tower. Exactly two years later, his wife Linnie Rogers became the first woman to climb the tower using the ladder. Some remnants of this original “ladder” are still visible today if viewed through binoculars. Today, most of the climbers adopt free crack climbing methods using only naturally occurring wedges and crevices as they move up. Ropes and harnesses act only as life saving support. One may call such amateurs brave or crazy or purely suicidal, but a growing number of aspirants have been seeking out special climbing schools and paying hundreds of dollars to get trained and guided to reach the summit. There are over 400 routes of different levels of difficulty to reach the top and several books have been written on the subject. Climbers typically take at least half a day to reach the top and many visitors are seen craning their necks and tracking the progress of their favourite climbers.
No commercial activity, except rock climbing, is permitted on or near the tower even today. For those not interested in climbing, there is a two kilometre long trail that circles the tower and provides terrific views of the tower from different angles. Free viewing devices are mounted at various locations along the trail which give an opportunity to admire the numerous birds, reptiles and insects. The trail is surrounded predominantly by the ponderosa pines, much of which has been destroyed by forest fires. Several eroded columns of the tower also lie scattered around the tower and children enjoy piecing these onto the tower like a jigsaw puzzle in their imagination.
Secluded charm
The Devils Tower is open day and night on all days of the year. It can be reached by air, with nearest airports at Gillette in Wyoming or Rapid City in South Dakota. The drive to reach the Tower is comfortable and easy because of sparse population in the vicinity, and it is made more picturesque with views of the Missouri Buttes in the background. Those interested in staying for more than a day, especially climbers, can find accommodation in nearby camp-sites since fancy hotels or even chain restaurants are not available within several miles radius. This isolation from the regular touristy frills adds to the tower’s charm and leaves even the casual visitors awed by its magnificence and mystery. This natural wonder evokes different emotions in people and beckons them, just like an unsolved puzzle, to revisit it again and again.
