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Magazine
Time Out
Symphony called Helsinki
KISHORE AND SMITA IYENGAR
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Finland’s historic capital is full of melodic sights and sounds.
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Photo: Kishore and Smita Iyengar
Enchanting experience: Helsinki by night.
On the earphonesU2 sounded grand, going well with the Zitchlicht 2001 vintage South African Pinotage red we quaffed with almonds. Soon after take off, a beaming stewardess on the Mumbai-Helsinki direct Finnair flight presented a brief info on the fin
est sights and sounds of Helsinki. The Vanta Helsinki International Airport gave us the first taste of Finnish design. Chill winds greeted our approach into Helsinki. We drove into the main downtown area to savor the “Lounas”(lunch) delights of one of the city’s most celebrated and historic gourmet destinations, Kappeli.
Meaning “Chapel”, this Eastern European designed signature restaurant with views of the harbour has been hosting dignitaries and heads of state for decades. It was in 1837 that a young shepherd boy used to sell milk outside a makeshift shop to people strolling through the park. The Latin word for shepherd is “Pastor” and the small shop soon acquired the nickname Kappeli or “Chapel”. It has been frequented by great souls like Jean Sibelius, Juhani Aho, the writer, Eino Leino, the poet, Robert Kajanus, the conductor and Albert Edelfelt, the artist over the years.
After a languorous lunch heightened with shots of typically local liqueurs like Koskenkorva vodka, red Karpalolikoori (red cranberry Polar liqueur and Lakkalikoori (yellow cloudberry liqueur), we drove down to the main Senate Square to size up the grand City Cathedral Basilica.
Famous landmark
With its towering cupola, magnificent period organ, and statues of the revered Father of the Reformation, Martin Luther, the 150-year-old Cathedral is Helsinki’s most famous landmark. We sat for a while facing the simple yet imposing altar. Of Evangelical Lutheran origin, this magnificent monument was built as a glorification of the then Tzar of Russia, Grand Duke Nicholas I.
The ambience was almost soul-cleansing as we tip-toed round to view the amazing yet seemingly avant-garde stylisation of the runners and column cornices. Outside it had drizzled heavily, the skies overcast with un-seasonal winter showers. We walked across to the brightly lit National Library of Finland, a much-respected institution that afforded free reading rooms and books to anyone interested in reading.
With over five floors of carefully planned interiors in neo-classical style, this library also houses literary works and rare compositions of Finland’s most famous and honoured classical musical genius, Jean Sibelius. His earliest of renditions are carefully documented and preserved for all to appreciate. Finland’s musical genius became famous with his immortal renditions and symphonies that covered best-known compositions like Finlandia, the Violin Concerto, The Swan of Tuonela, Valse Triste and Karelia Suite.
There was a thrilling surprise in store for us as we dashed into the unusual confines of a rock-ensconed structure with angled wooden rafters, right in the historic city centre of Helsinki. It took a while for us to come to visual terms with the most unique place of worship, the Temppeliaukia Church or more famously known as the Rock Church. Conceived and executed by Timo and Tuomo Suomaleinen in 1969, with existing quarried natural rock formation on the outer periphery, it has a giant circular, 26-mile long pure copper wire roofing that straddles the entire ceiling and bright upholstered seating and a mezzanine, with timber rafters encased in clear glass to let in sunlight. This architectural marvel is a venue for some of the most distinguished international musical events and concerts in Europe.
Music, in all its glory
With superb, naturally endowded acoustic features that compare with the most sophisticated digital sound technology, one can experience a host of musical repertoire from jazz to rock to reggae to classical concerts. The Temppeliaukia Church soars over other edifices of the city in terms of visibility and popularity. As we sat for a while absorbing the sheer dimensional magnificence, the murmured chants of the faithful and the soft strains of Sibelius’ Ninth Symphony on the sound system was enchanting and uplifting.
On the way back we looked up the Sibelius Monument installed in a verdant park with a bust of the composer. As we alighted on the pavement at Helsinki International Airport, we glanced out to the horizon, admiring the skyline’s mauve and indigo streaks. Stepping inside for check-in, we felt blessed by the experiences. The symphony of Helsinki’s marvellous sights and sounds was indeed, sweet music to our senses.
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Quick facts
Helsinki is reacheable by Finnair’s direct, non-stop flight from Mumbai (five days a week) and Delhi (daily.
The Helsinki Vanta International Airport is 30 minutes from the city centre.
The best time to visit is May to October and then in winter if you love snow!
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