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Magazine
Time Out
Sailing down history
NIMI KURIAN
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Cruising down the Nile is a unique experience as it brings alive the legends that the river has sustained down the ages.
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Photos: Nimi Kurian
Romancing the Nile: Hot air balloons at Luxor.
The cruise began at Aswan on a boat called Hapi 5. Docked somewhere mid-river, one had to enter and exit several boats before reaching it. Large rooms with a fabulous view of the countryside — whenever there was no boat blocking the view!
Aswan offers a host of exciting possibilities from a glimpse of the Aswan High Dam, a visit to the Temple of Philae, Nubian musicians and a ride in the felucca. The boat was set to sail at 4 a.m. the next morning. Sitting on the sun deck, watching the waters of the Nile darken and the lights come on onshore was comforting.
The romance of the Nile perhaps began when a baby was floated on the waters to escape death and was found and rescued by the daughter of Pharaoh. It was much later that the mystique of the queen laid claims to the river. Cruising on the Nile is a unique experience because it is history you sail on.
Dinner is fun. So many nationalities, so many people and so many dishes. The waiters are excited. “You India? Ah! Amita Bachan!” they say.
Early the next morning the boat docks at Kom Ombo. All passengers are given cards. This way they know the number of passengers who have left the boat and the number who have returned.
Spectacular sight
In the early morning, with the first rays of the sun touching it, the temple of Kom Ombo is fascinating. It is a spectacular river temple dedicated to two gods — Sobek and Horus the elder. It is but a hurried tour, for, the boat sails at 8 a.m.
When the passengers return, there are warm towels and fruit juice waiting, before a hearty breakfast. The rest of the morning is leisurely, mostly spent on the sun deck watching the river.
“Almost 500 boats ply this river every day,” the guide had said. Counting the boats on the river, it is almost believable. And the evidence in the river is telling — oil, plastic and debris. The countryside is beautiful, calm and green. Occasionally fishermen in small boats pass by, bobbing in the wake of the big boat. They wave cheerfully.
It is late afternoon when the boat arrives at Edfu. The best way to go to the Ptolemic temple is by horse carriage, and all the passengers with their guides are herded into waiting carriages. Everyone is galloping away to the temple of the falcon god, Horus. Built over a period of 180 years, this temple has in its sanctuary a replica of the barque that Horus is supposed to have used. Each year the goddess Hathor would come over from the Dendara temple and stay with Horus for 14 days.
The Temple of Philae.
The second night on board is the Galibia Night. There is added excitement as the boat is about to cross the Esna Lock. The sun deck is crowded because everyone wants a view of the crossing. The boats coming in from the north are first allowed to cross over and then the boats from the south. There are many boats up ahead, so it is a long wait. But it is beautiful on the sun deck, with the moonlight glistening on the waters and the lights twinkling on land. It is easy to imagine what a glorious sight Cleopatra would have been, seated on her barge.
The galibia night is wonderful. Everyone dressed in galibias and head dresses. But with loud western music, it’s time to dance. The party winds up at midnight.
It’s Luxor at dawn. On one bank is the city and on the other is the Valley of the Kings. Hot air balloons take off on the west bank. The sudden fires, the flaring, the gentle lift off and as the sun rises there are numerous balloons in the air.
Rapturous evening
It’s a rushed day with visits to the temples of Karnak and Luxor and the Valley of the Kings and the temple of Queen Hatshepshut. Once again, there’s entertainment on the boat in the evening. There is an Arab dancer and a belly-dancer. Everyone is tired, but still come to the lounge. The belly-dancer holds her audience in a captivating trance. Shaking, dancing, tantalising. The men are in raptures. Cameras flash as everyone wants to capture this wonderful moment. When she leaves there is a collective sigh of disappointment. But before it transforms to boredom there is a loud piercing yell and an Arab enters the room. He seems exceedingly tall and wears a layered skirt. His dance is fascinating, mesmeric. This is the last night on the boat.
Looking out at the Valley of the Kings we remember the kings, queens and nobles who lie there — their final resting place disturbed, excavated, laid open to the gaze of a countless curious eyes.
Fact file
You can board the boat at either Aswan or Luxor. Both places are easily accessible by rail and air.
Boarding at Aswan, you touch Kom Ombo, Edfu, Esna and arrive at Luxor.
At all these places you can ask the reception desk at your hotel to organise guides for you to take you sight seeing.
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