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ECO-WATCH
Lost among the bears
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Be prepared to see more than birds, and there are plenty of those too, if you are planning to visit the Sur Sarovar Bird Sanctuary. TANUSHREE PODDER
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All around us, within the forest, are umpteen winged friends, warbling in different tones.
Photo: Tanushree Podder
Time to meditate: Assorted birds in the Sur Sarovar.
The blast of cold wind tears through our shivering bodies. Drawing my jacket tighter and pulling my cap over the frozen ears, I look askance at the motley group of friends gathered around two cars. The temperature seems to be hovering around a freezi
ng low, despite the bright sun. The idea of driving 20-odd kilometres seems preposterous in the cold January morning.
My guests from the Southern parts of the country, though unused to cold weather, were ready to brave the vagaries of the dipping temperature. They insisted I show them around Agra and the adjoining areas and nothing I said could deter them. After many prolonged, protesting groans the stone-cold engine finally comes to life and we take off. Despite the cold, scores of daily bread earners are off to work, pedalling their way laboriously through the misty morning.
About 30 minutes later we turn into the Sur Sarovar Bird Sanctuary, with lofty hopes of catching some migratory birds in action. Riding over the rough patches, we pay the mandatory fees. Emaciated Keekar trees with scrubby leaves line both sides of the path for about a kilometre as we bump over an apology of a road. Through the foliage, the pristine lake suddenly looms into view, its placid waters reflecting the rays of the sun. Little islands within the water body are dotted with winged creatures. Soon the binos are riveted to the eyes and the cameras get into action.
Birds on a perch
We reach a board proclaiming our arrival at watch-tower number one. We walk over to the concrete tower which stands at the bank of the lake promising a great view of the adjoining areas. Right ahead, sitting on a series of poles jutting out of the water, are a dozen birds in various meditative poses. The area is home to Spot Billed Pelican, Pallas’ Fish Eagle, Eurasian Spoonbills, Great Egret, Common Cranes, Sarus Cranes, Egyptian vulture and painted storks during the winter months, we had been told.
Newspapers had reported that the migratory birds had made a detour from the Keoladeo and headed towards the Sur Sarovar this winter. There sure seemed a lot of birds around.
The sun focuses its energy over the banks of the lake, its rays spreading warmth all around. The sparse foliage of the forest allows the rays to enter the domain without offering any resistance. All around us, within the forest, are umpteen winged friends, warbling in different tones.
We climb down from the watch tower and walk towards the Python patch. A board planted at the head of a rough track announces the presence of the majestic reptiles released by the Wildlife SOS rescue teams in the general area. Excited, we wander around the track, our hearts tattooing loudly, looking for the reptiles that are supposed to come out during the winter mornings to sun themselves. From a safe distance we peer under the rocks and boulders, peep into the umpteen holes searching for the fugitives. In our hands we carry sticks we have picked up, just in case a python surprises us. Our taut hearing senses have reached a state of utter stress, continually imagining slithering and whistling sounds. We walk the next 500 metres, searching for pythons without success. Not a single one in sight!
Bear refuge
The tall electrified gates of the Bear Rescue Centre loom before us. The Centre has made its way into the Limca Book of Records for harbouring the largest number of Sloth Bears. It is also reputed to be the single largest such facility for rescued dancing Sloth Bears in the world. We are met by Dr. Raja, a friendly and warm veterinarian doctor who looks after the health and welfare of the inmates. Leading us around the centre, he familiarises us with the details.
“We’ve just completed five years; the first rescued dancing bear was brought here on Christmas Eve in 2002. Till today we have rescued more than 400 bears and this place alone harbours 130 of them.”
From Dr. Raja we learn that the Indian Sloth Bears have been used by a nomadic gypsy tribe called “Kalandars” for earning their living. It begins with the stealing of bear cubs when they are less than a month old. The cubs are transported in sacks from one trading market to another till they reach the Kalandars. The delicate snouts of the poor creatures are pierced with a red-hot iron rod and a coarse jute rope is passed through it. Sometimes, the wound gets infected and maggots take over. The canines are broken and claws are chopped off, using primitive tools like stones or iron chisels. The males are castrated brutally without the use of anaesthesia.
“The tugging of the rope on the muzzle and the fear of the stick makes the bears ‘dance’ and entertain people,” said the doctor.
Most of the rescued bears require dental treatment which is provided by Dr. Raja in the hospital which has X-Ray equipment as well as a pathological laboratory.
We are introduced to Ravi and Maya, two playful cubs engaged in mock fight, and taken through the vast centre with its state of the art hospital with its operation theatre, feeding area, and socialising pen. The free-ranging area with its hammocks, tyre swings, little water pools and greenery is a pleasant place, rather like a children’s park.
Many of the bears are blind. We are moved by the sight of them groping around.
Eagerly awaited
It is feeding time, and a feast in the form of multi-grain porridge, honey, and fruits is ready for the ursine inmates. The smell of food has already led some of the bears into the feeding den. They begin pacing the place impatiently while the fruits are washed and readied for them.
The sight of a beautiful deer draws appreciative exclaims from the group.
“That is Barry,” informs Dr. Raja. “He is a hog-deer rescued from a village in Palwal.”
The place is full of monkeys who forage for the leftover food after the bears have been fed. They dart fearlessly from tree to tree playfully. A few adventurous ones clamber down from trees to make faces at us. The enclosures have electrified wires and bears as well as the monkeys know the dangers of touching the live wires.
The sun is calling it a day as we wave to the bears and convey our gratitude to Dr. Raja. Memories of the day keep us warm as we drive back in the cold.
Quick facts
Getting there: Keetham is about 23 km from Agra and 175 km from Delhi. It stands right on the Delhi-Agra Highway.
Staying: It is best to make a day trip to the place from Agra, which has plenty of options from the expensive to the budget hotels.
Permission: A visit to the Bear Rescue Centre needs prior permission. Contact the Wildlife SOS office at Delhi. Phone: 91-11-24621939. Email: wsos@vsnl.com or info@wildlifesos.org. Website: www.wildlifesos.org
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