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Magazine
Footloose
Tranquil retreat
AKBER AYUB
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Vizhinjam, located near Kovalam, offers a laid-back ambience and the space to recover from the daily grind.
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Photo: Akber Ayub
Just another day at work for the locals: Fisherman at Vizhinjam.
Located on a stump of land leaning into the sea five km south of Kovalam is this historic but unassuming fishing village – the ninth-century capital of the erstwhile Ay kings. Wars were fought over it between the Dutch and the Portugese, and la
ter, the British built factories here in 1644. Today, Vizhinjam’s only link to its eventful past are a few ancient relics like the cave temple in the village centre, said to belong to the Chera period.
A sweeping, crescent-shaped bay forms the sea front of Vizhinjam. The beaches may not be wide and sandy but offer a tranquillity and quietude inconceivable on the neighbouring Kovalam beaches. While the northern end and the mid-section of the cove sport some fine resorts, the southern end forms the Vizhinjam fishing harbour — a beehive of activity at dawn but a quiet and idyllic bay for the rest of the day with sailboats gliding on the shimmering waters and the anchored fishing boats bobbing on the swells making for a perfect portrait against the azure sky.
Around the village
Close to the harbour road sits the eighth-century cave temple smack in the centre of the village, its opening all but blocked by a huge granite boulder carrying a bas-relief of Hindu Gods. It is now a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India. Located on a rising ground overlooking the sea is another temple, the Kovil Kadu, believed to date from the ninth century. Boat building is another attraction of Vizhinjam. The harbour road houses a number of workshops churning out fishing boasts made of wood and fibreglass that carry price tags of up to a lakh each.
While Kovalam attracts die-hard beach buffs from all over the globe, Vizhinjam draws visitors, mainly Westerners, looking for unadulterated R&R and genuine Ayurvedic treatment and rejuvenation. As you drive down from Kovalam on the twisting road snaking around coconut groves and thick vegetation, the abrupt transformation from the flagrant display and almost Bohemian beach culture to the laid-back, idyllic ambience of Vizhinjam is striking. The undulating terrain is green and verdant and soothes your nerves almost immediately. Accommodation options are plenty. Most of the resorts are upscale in terms of comfort and amenities, all sporting an Ayurvedic centre with green leaf classification or above.
The resort where I stayed was typical. Perched on a low hump on the very edge of the sea next to a rocky outcropping, the resort commands sweeping views of the beach stretching out on either side and the shimmering sea. Villas and beach rooms lie scattered across four acres of terraced land, delightfully landscaped with scores of swaying palms, tropical plants, bushes and swathes of green lawns. Hammocks strung between slender palm-trunks and park benches placed strategically invite you to relax and unwind. Most of the villas and the beach rooms sit along the edge of the property facing the beach, while some are clustered in the shady backyards around the pool. In keeping with the local building style, peaked tile roof supported on wooden slats is common. Cane and wooden furniture and an adequate bath and A/c, TV and a mini-fridge take care of creature comforts. A wide deck in front reaching to the edge of the beach sporting reclining chairs, hammocks and beach beds allows unfettered views with only the beached catamarans and rocky outcroppings between you and the glittering sea. Fishermen could be seen hauling in the nets in tandem, with the day’s catch — starting at the break of dawn and going on till the sun is high in the sky. By early evening, fishing boats venture out and as dusk falls, lights from scores of these could be seen twinkling like fireflies far at sea.
Traditional food
A multi-cuisine restaurant housed in a large, airy structure offering a commanding view of the blue sea is ideal for relaxed dining. While sea-food is a speciality, traditional Kerala food is popular too. The Ayurvedic centre boasts an Olive Leaf classification and has some well-qualified and committed doctors. A whole gamut of treatments and rejuvenating therapies are available. Most of the guests check-in for week- or month-long packages, ready for a strict regimen of massages, medications, yoga and a specially devised menu tailor-made for each individual. At mealtimes, the restaurant lays out a special buffet table loaded with varieties of carefully prepared vegetarian food each marked with the kind of “Dosha” it is expected to alleviate. Those who are on a strict holiday though follow the a la carte.
While the well-stocked resort library allows you to catch up on your reading, sight-seeing trips to local tourist centres and back-water boat rides offer a peek at the surrounding countryside and native life. Options include a day trip to Kanyakumari, a drive to the hill station Ponmudi, a trip to Alleppy with an overnight stay in a houseboat or even a foray into the elephant camp at Kottoor. Shopping trips to Thiruvanandrapuram for jewellery, textiles and handicrafts is another prospect.
Email: akbersait@yahoo.co.uk
Getting there
By Air: Thiruvananthapuram International Airport is 22 km north of Vizhinjam and connects Bangalore, Delhi and Chennai with daily flights (Airport: 0471-250 1537).
By Rail: Thiruvananthapuram railway station is 18 km away and has trains connecting to all major metros in India and major towns in Kerala. (Station: 0471-232 1568).
By Road: Vizhinjam lies near the southern tip of NH-47 passing through Kerala, connecting Salem to Kanyakumari (KSRTC bus stand at TVM: 0471-232 3886).
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