NEWSMAKER
Jewels in her crown
SYEDA FARIDA
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Alpana Gujral, whose artistic heritage finds expression in her art-meets-craft designer jewellery, talks of her creations and future plans.
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Jewellery designer Alpana Gujral considers her Mughal-influenced bijoux ‘more art pieces than jewellery’. So much so that she infuses a contemporary verve in the classic Meenakari and jadau forms while working with her team of craftsmen in Jaipur and Delhi. Her collection is sold in New York, London, Dubai, San Francisco, Hong Kong and other fashion capitals, especially the Asia Museum store in New York and RSH, Dubai. But she refuses to part with the names of the high profile clientele who wear her limited edition pieces: “Kelly Preston wears my jewels,” she adds matter-of-factly.
‘Interesting’ is how fashionistas define her work. “Her designs, be it the bracelet or earrings, are not your regular designs. They are ageless pieces — jewellery showcasing a balanced design that can be worn by generations alike. As for Alpana, people vouch for her style,” says Sudha Jalan, proprietor of the high end boutique ‘also’, who is planning an exhibition of the ‘Sacred Chants’ collection for her celebrity clients.
‘Sacred Chants’, Alpana’s new offering, blends mysticism with sculpture. Wood, pearls and gold come together to present the Mughal lattice in vivid hues alongside the divine form of Ganesha. Her trademark artistry comprising a riot of notes coming from various gems forming crimson lotuses and verdant foliage blends effortlessly with the calming aura of spirituality. Yet again conforming to her trademark oriental finery and rococo exuberance blend.
Artistic atmosphere
Her art-meets-craft premise does not come as a surprise, given that her parents are the noted artiste Satish Gujral and jewellery designer Kiran. “Growing up in artistic atmosphere one tends to look at things differently. You look at finer details,” says the Delhi School of Arts alumnus. Her USP is innovation: gems that replace traditional enamel in the antique floral motifs and then the usage of chunky stones and pearls for that lavish statement. This detailing that has found her a slot in the famed international jewellery bazaars like JCK and won adulation for her intricate designs (read grand) with NRI buyers.
Designing for international jewellery fairs “is a mixed bag really. Jewellery for the Indian connoisseur is an inherent part of the wardrobe. The westerners prefer smaller pieces,” she says. Life has come full circle for Alpana. She studied textile design at college only to take up interior design, experimenting with the new look to cast iron, reviving royal hunting lodges in Rajasthan or creating the perfect space for couture display. Soon she decided to apply the same passion to jewels the rest is history.
“I started designing jewellery about 15 years ago. It’s rare to be able to successfully transition a hobby or even a passion into a career. I was fortunate enough to have done so. I’ve always taken an interest in jewellery; of course I’ve always enjoyed wearing it. But my focus didn’t stop there. I wanted to create a collection that was unique and distinct to all the other designs that were on the market. I wanted to break the monotony of Indian jewellery with my creations,” she says.
While the marriage of gems and enamel continues to be the mainstay to craft the designs, Alpana adds fuchsias, mauves and other coloured stones to meet the needs of the haute market with aficionados who prefer to match their jewellery with their ensembles. The limitations of red, green and blue or the usage of ruby, emerald and sapphire that marked the conventional design were done away with to make way for a softer lilac and lemon yellow on antique silver. Likewise the traditional flower and vine motifs blend with the baroque balanced with a form that is replete with the new-agey plainness.
Limited editions
“The medium is the same; we use gold and silver to make the jewellery but the stones are more varied. The whole craft is old. Every piece is handcrafted. It takes months to create one piece. My work is more design-oriented. It is for anyone who appreciates art. My pieces are limited edition. I don’t make more than three of a kind,” she says.
That’s precisely why she refuses to create lines for fashion weeks and films, unlike her contemporaries. A film buff she refuses to work for ensemble-heavy period films nor does she feel the need to bask in the arc lights for the various fashion weeks. “No I haven’t designed for the India Fashion Week,” she says calmly. “I would say that my most significant strengths are my originality, patience and style. These ingredients are necessary to be in the creative field. You need originality and style to be able to create something beautiful and the patience to bring it to life. My mantra is to live and let live. I don’t believe in getting caught up in the petty things in life; there are too many other beautiful things to focus on.”
And for the issues that came along, “I look back and smile on all the hurdles especially once I’ve crossed them! But seriously, everyone faces obstacles in their life at one time or another; it is not the obstacle that is important but the lesson learned from it that makes the experience worth it,” says the designer.
New store
Talk milestones and she is all excited about her flagship store slated to open in August. “Lately I have been preparing for the launch of my new store at the DLF group’s elite Emporio Mall in Delhi. This is my first store opening and I am looking forward to this exciting new venture,” says Alpana, adding in the same breath, “unfortunately my children have not taken to jewellery design. My older son has completed his studies from the University of Chicago and after working for a couple of years for a MNC has decided to engage his entrepreneurial spirit. My younger son is studying film in Australia,’ she says.
Here’s to the designer whose plans promise to add more jewels to her crown.
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