TIME OUT
In the land of Casanova
TESSY ANTHONY C.
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To visit Venice is to come away with impressions and memories that last a lifetime.
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Pigeons can get away with almost anything in Venice. Sometimes you can see one, all puffed up with pride, stalking into the Basilica San Marco itself.
Photos: AP
Venice Central: A panoramic view of the Grand Canal.
Captivated by the glamour and elegance of the land of the legendary Casanova, his exploits as seen in the movie by the same name, with bated breath I waited for what Venice had in store for me. Venice, a place sought after by romantics and travellers! From Padova we made tracks to see Venezia in the north of Italy. It is a land of waterways, narrow lanes, cafeterias, pontes (bridges) and a haven for photographers. But, to be honest, the kaleidoscopic dreams woven through the cinematic lens is far removed from the real Venice.
Venice is famous for its canals. And within Venice you can either reach your destination by gondolas or on foot. Gondolas are the traditional boats used by the Venetians. But today it is mainly used for tourists. There are many motor boats and “vaporetti” (water-buses) that take you along this island city. Gondola rides are very expensive but you can take one a little away from St. Mark’s Square.
Moving experience
Cruising down the river in a gondola during sunset was a spectacular experience and evoked powerful feelings. This is a quintessential experience with the gondolier playing music and singing in his baritone voice as in the Bollywood movie “The Great Gambler” or in the recent one “Bacchana He Haseena” starring Deepika Padukone and Ranbir Kapoor. The man who rowed us in his typical horizontally stripped black and white T-shirt with his head gear and the golden trimmings on the gondola created a very exotic atmosphere for us. Even in the Netherlands, most of the buildings face waterways and canals but there are roads in front of these buildings unlike in Venezia. Gondolas and masks all add to the willing suspension of disbelief that adds to the charm of Venice. Like in Goa, there is a sizzling mood of theatre, music and dance during the carnival in Venice. Masks are worn by people as a part of festivity and celebration. Later these masks adorn the walls of the wearer’s house until the following year.
Arriving by train, a picturesque boat ride down the Grand Canal took me to see Piazza San Marco or St. Mark’s Square. This open square, with its major offices, is a place for celebrations and festivals. It is a “happening” place frequented by Venetians. Here also stands the Doge’s palace (on one side of which is the Venetian lagoon), St. Mark’s clock tower and St. Mark’s Campanile.
Pigeons everywhere
Piazza San Marco is famous for its pigeons, especially the “rock pigeons” (they are grey in colour with two black bands on its wings). Pigeons are the unofficial mascots of Venice. When one steps off at Piazza San Marco, one is greeted by these birds. In the square one can hear laughter and shrieks when pigeons land on one’s head, shoulders, ears and arms. They come in search of feed. Feeding these birds found me struggling with 10-15 birds perched all over me. As an outcome of the attack, I lost an ear ring of mine. The pigeon is highly respected in Venice. You will never be offered roasted pigeon in a Venetian restaurant. Sometimes invalid pigeons, having lost a leg or wounded in a scramble for feed, are given first aid. They are known to the waiters at the Piazza cafés, and are allowed to occupy unoccupied tables, to feed themselves on remaining morsels found on tables. Pigeons can get away with almost anything in Venice. Sometimes you can see one, all puffed up with pride, stalking into the Basilica San Marco itself. It is in this Cathedral that the tomb of Saint Mark exists. Most Venetians are Catholics and this Cathedral is a very good example of Byzantine architecture. Close to this is the Doge’s Palace or Palazzo Ducale in St. Mark’s Square, a gothic palace and the home of the Venetian ruler, the Doge. There is a museum inside which is worth seeing. On coming to this square one is awestruck by the Eastern influence on the palace and the Cathedral.
Standing on the Ponte Della Paglia, a stone bridge near Doge’s Palace, one can see the Bridge of Sighs and San Giorgio Maggiore Island across the lagoon. This bridge connects St. Mark’s with other districts. The Bridge of Sighs is yet another bridge that connects the Doge’s Palace with the cells of prisoners. The bridge gets its name from the sighs of the inmates there. The poet Byron mentions this bridge in his poem “Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage”.
A real crowd stealer is the Ponte Di Rialto, the first bridge (of the three) built on the Grand Canal. This bridge is a landmark of Venice. And standing on it one can gaze ahead at the panoramic view. The Rialto market close by gets its name from the bridge. We did most of our sight seeing on foot because it helped us to feel the pulse of the place. Eateries are located all around the square. Often we would stop to have a bite as the aroma of wine and food wafted in and soaked up the atmosphere.
Glassmaking is a pursuit dominated by craftsmen on the island of Murano in the Venetian Lagoon. Murano glass is famous world over. I purchased curios like Venetian masks, key chains, ear rings (masks) and a few baubles in the form of sweets (made of glass), vases, lamps and huge pendants as mementos of this fine exquisite craftsmanship in its vibrant hues. Buying souvenirs is a habit I have developed from all my travels. And splurges like these enrich my memories. I miss those sumptuous meals of pizzas, lavish dinners under the canopy of a star-studded sky and watching the stars till sleep takes over. Today, my work-filled days conjure up exotic images in my mind of masks, Murano glass, lace, basilicas and gondolas. Now I know that the heart and the mind are peculiarly susceptible of lasting impressions, and this is unquestionable.
Quick facts
Marcopolo Airport, which connects Venice to most European Cities, Dubai and USA is 12 km from the Island of Venice and is well connected by road and water transport.
Trains from Rome, Milan, Florence, Pisa, Naples, Paris, Vienna, Prague arrive at Venezia St. Lucia Station. Venice Mestre is the mainland station. There is also a road network connecting Venice to other parts of Europe.
Visit St. Mark’s Square, Doge’s Palace, Basilica San Marco, Campanile di San Marco, Riva degli Schiavoni, The Bridge of Sighs, Grand Canal, Rialto Bridge, Accademia Bridge. San Giorgio Maggiore and Murano Islands can be visited if time permits.
Hotels for all budgets can be booked on the Internet, starting from €60 onwards per night.
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