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Magazine
Off the beaten track
Ancient cascades
PARAJ SHUKLA
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The rocky landscape of Hadoti and Mewar regions of Rajasthan comes alive during the monsoon with seasonal rivers emptying into narrow gorges. Alongside, you will find ancient Shiva temples dating from the 10th and 11th centuries, making for an ideal rendezvous with nature and architecture.
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Photos: Paraj Shukla
A rich harvest of culture and nature: The waterfalls at Bhimlat.
The monsoon, with its magical touch, turns the drab, brown, parched land of Rajasthan into a lively green, verdant terrain. Numerous small water bodies come up within a matter of days, giving rise to long undulating streams which thence start to flow. As if a “pause” has been resumed with a “play”. The natural scenic splendours of the Hadoti and Mewar regions of the State inspired several rulers in the past to build Shiva temples. The rocky landscape ensured the supply of the raw materials needed to build those architectural marvels and the fiercely flowing seasonal streams often emptied into the narrow gorges in the form of dazzling waterfalls. For a rendezvous with nature, architecture, sculpture and spirituality, let me take you to the Menal, Bijoliya, Bhimlat and Rameshwar Mahadev temples, all within a distance of 70 kilometres from Bundi.
Perfect symphony
The temple at Bijoliya;
The Menal temple is an apt instance of nature and architecture complementing each other in a sweet symphony. This walled complex, with its exquisitely carved temples and skilfully sculptured idols, is an architecture lover’s delight. The 11th century temple of Mahanaleshwara is an exalted specimen of the ancient art and the dexterity of the master craftsmen of the country. The monsoon-spurred Menal river runs over the haphazardly strewn granite slabs to segment the complex into two before plunging into a 122-metre deep cavernous gorge. You may like to checkout the view of this precipitous waterfall from RTDC-run cafeteria nearby.
Not far from Menal is Bijoliya — another, equally majestic abode of Lord Shiva sans a waterfall. It would be easy to mistake this apparently nondescript, walled township as just another sleepy, dusty town of Rajasthan. The crumbling and extensively encroached fortification may faintly hint at its historical significance but the Shiva temple complex situated adjacent to the fort wall in the eastern side of the town will convince you of its ancient roots. Built around 10th century, the three temples of the complex, Undeshwar, Mahakaleshwar and Sahastralingeshwar, are one of the best and unique examples of Indian temple architecture. The water of a small water tank called Mandakini within the ramparts of the complex is said to possess curative properties.
Scenic splendour
The temple at Menal
The gorgeous waterfall of Bhimlat, just a short diversion away, will spellbind you with its huge size and natural beauty. And the idyllic Rameshwar is tucked in a narrow gorge in the hills near Bundi. Their sheer seclusion, cool environs, thick stand of trees, and a lovely waterfall make them a favourite hangout for Bundi picnickers. Unlike Menal and Bijoliya, there is no architectural grandeur in the Shiva temples of Bhimlat and Rameshwar but the local devotees come here for paying their obeisance throughout the year.
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Fact file
The word Menal is derived from the word Maha-Nal which literally means waterfall in a great chasm or cleft. Menal was once famous as the summer retreat of king Prithvi Raj Chauhan. Bijoliya town was the seat of both the first independence struggle and non-cooperation movement. Bhimlat is believed to have been created by the leg-blow of the great Pandava, Bhim. Rameshwar Mahadev temple was patronised by the Hada rulers of Bundi.
Getting there: Nearest airport is Jaipur from where NH12 connects Bundi (210km) and Kota (250km). The latter is well connected by Rail. Menal (70km), Bijoliya (50km), and Bhimlat (30km) are located on the state highway to Chittaurgarh (155km) from Bundi. Rameshwar (24km) can be reached from the road along the Jait Sagar Lake of Bundi. All the four locations can be covered in a daylong excursion from both Bundi and Kota.
Staying there: Both Bundi and Kota offer lots of upmarket and budget staying options. The RTDC cafeteria at Menal provides casual camping space and clean toilet facilities.
Shopping: Miniature paintings on silk cloth can be bought as excellent souvenirs from Bundi. Kota is well known for its Doria sarees which are very comfortable to wear in summers.
Must see: In Bundi, don’t miss the fascinating murals of world-famous Chitrashala in the Garh Palace, Raniji-ki-Baori (stepwell) and the 84-pillared cenotaph, both in the town, Sukh Mahal on the bank of beautiful Jait Sagar Lake and nearby Kshar Bagh. In Kota, checkout the intriguing murals at Garh Palace, Kshar Bagh adjacent to Kishor Sagar Lake and the nearby Government Museum for rare antiquities including exceptionally beautiful sculptures and paintings, boat safari on River Chambal and the eighth century Shiva Temple at Kansua.
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