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Time Out

A Victorian sojourn

Photos: Kishore and Smita Iyengar

Unique and unforgettable: The awe-inspiring 12 apostles.

Melbourne, Victoria. On the placid, glittering Yarra River. The city elebrates its vibrant art, avant-garde architecture and design, diverse international cuisine, lively theatre and bustling entertainment attractions. Melbourne, one of the finest cities in Australia is also unarguably one of the world’s best. You can get a hawk’s eye view of this neat and compact metropolis on a breathtaking 20-minute helicopter flight over the city and Port Melbourne harbour with “Heli Experiences”. It’s a uniquely unforgettable experience that leaves you thrilled.

There’s more to the road than meets your gas pedal! Step on it folks and head south-westwards to Torquay, bordering the Indian Ocean. Here begins the 200 miles long Great Ocean Road, extending westwards and, yeah, one of the most spectacular and panoramic highways in the world. As you drive leisurely hugging the lovely coastal route, you breeze past small fishing villages, cosy picnic spots and deserted white beaches. But, further on in Port Campbell, a grand spectacle awaited us out there in the ocean depths…. the world-famous “Twelve Apostles” — individual rock formations in the sea that resemble 12 mute figures.

The “Twelve Apostles Helicopters” ride from Port Campbell uplifted us quickly over the grassy knolls and roughened crags bordering the sheer ninety degree drop to the restless aquamarine aquatic floor at the base.

As the seasoned pilot manoeuvred the airborne bird over the fantastic, looming limestone formations, lone but intimidating over the cliff shores, we caught a glimpse of what’s now left of the fabled “London Bridge” (now weathered into just a flat rock).

It was a 180-degree, wild ocean canvas we can never, ever forget. We gazed away, sitting magnetised by the raw, weather-knocked magnificence of the vainly positioned, millions of years old rocky nuggets on nature’s hyper-restless bosom…..some day many centuries later, they would succumb to the inevitable sledge hammering of the unforgiving winds and the waves.

“The Twelve Apostles” stand out along the rough sea bordering the Great Ocean Road and are one of their kind in the world. From here in Port Campbell you drive to the small historic beach village of Warrnambool, home to the majestic Southern Right Whales in the blue ocean. Close to our chic, stylish pad for the night, it is a rare natural attraction many wait for long hours to witness and admire. The other open-air feature here is the sound and laser show “Shipwrecked”, a fantastic surround sound, laser and fibre-optics, live, high-tech show that encapsulates the plight of the many immigrants ships from England and Ireland which crashed on the rocks in the nearby rocks, enacted with actual over-the-century props and settings.

Eureka Skydeck.

Two hours away from Warrnambool, we drove through bright, neon-esque yellow fields of canola and wild flowers to another historic destination, Ballarat. On Ballarat’s, Sovereign Hill, the essence of a good five hours of your holidaying sojourn is immersed in reliving the frenzy and the peace combined as you actually prospect for gold pellets in a stream! A replica of the 18th-century gold mining town, it’s a live walk around old wooden buildings, saloons, cobbler’s, photographer’s, a restaurant, an ironsmith, a chatty school, an armoury… And yup Mate, there’s them horse carts, people decked in traditional flowing costumes, red uniformed soldiers, a goldsmith’s shop and a live foundry. It’s a wonderful place to enjoy poignant moments and, at an antique studio you can dress in theatre costumes and be framed for life in 18th-century couture!

You see the vineyards first. And you know it’s the Yarra Valley. Suzie O’Brian welcomed us at the porch of the classic Chateau Yering Historic House, a distinguished member of Relais and Chateau properties worldwide. A splendid five-course dinner took us chatting up with her and the niche experiences around, including her keen recommendation to taste delectable cheeses at Yarra Dairy down the turnpike…hmmm, we’d surely do that.

Some of the world’s finest sparkling wines and wine tastings awaited us at Domaine Chandon Estates as we quaffed liberally on their signature 2006 sparkling Pinot-Shiraz and Cuvee Riche. And then the De Bortolli Winery. Outstanding Shiraz Viognier, a vintage 2004, followed by a signature Pinot Noir 2005….sante!

If you love cheese, the tastings of country-made cheese, jams and breads at Yarra Valley Dairy overlooking rolling hills and the Dandenong Ranges will leave you salivating for more. It sure is a gastronome’s ultimate manna. There was another version of an exclusive adventure waiting for us the next morning.

Driving down to the picturesque Mornington Peninsula reputed for its cheery white beaches, horse riding, country walks, picnics, cycling and trekking, our day tripping was different here. An exclusive, custom-created gourmet experience conducted by a well known chef was to be our trip’s highlight. Josh of Melbourne Private Tours introduced us to Chef Jason, as we began with a visit to an olive grove with olive trees and select olive oil tastings.

Then came an organic tomato farm that had huge ripe red tomatoes welcoming us, followed by a milk dairy where sprinting naughty lambs and restless sheep bleated their cacophonic welcome to us. The salient feature was the boutique “Manton Winery” and its swish restaurant where the chef invited us to participate in preparing our delicious vegetarian lunch of home-made breads, cheese, salads, dips, soup, grilled vegetables and fresh farm fruits and bright young red Pinot Noir!

Wine Tasting at Yarra Valley.

On the way back to Melbourne in the afternoon, brief halts came at the very “nosey” “Red Hill” country bakery and its fine oven-fresh breads and croissants added culinary sparkle to our adventure. The “Red Hill” cheese dairy offered us select cheese tastings, and a boutique winery — “Ocean’s Eight” wines scored a hundred with its superb estate-bottled Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

That night, after a light Chinese dinner at the fabled “Nobu” within the magnificent Crown Towers, we strolled down the Southbank promenade, drinking in the glitter of Melbourne by dusk. The flavours of the vineyards, the scents of a dusty mining town and the visions of those 12 bastions of nature’s very own architectural might, lingered on with inerasable allure.

Getting there: The most convenient connection is Mumbai-Singapore-Melbourne on Singapore Airlines with their quick-change flights and excellent service.

In Victoria self drive (Left Hand Drive like India) for small families and couples, and conducted coach tours for groups is recommended.

There are lots of vegetarian dining options and you can enjoy fabulous Victoria wines also.

Shopping: Souvenirs, woollens, leather goods, real gold coins (Ballarat), wines, cheeses, olive oil, chocolates and jams.

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