FOOTLOOSE
Ascent to heaven
RAJESH KAMATH AND SREEDEVI PURUSHOTHAM
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Ploughing through the snow-laden and steep landscape of the Garhwal Himalayas was worth what awaited at the end: a rare glimpse of the Swargarohini peak gleaming in the moon light.
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Swargarohini — the name itself conjured images in our head. As first-time trekkers, we had just taken the advice of Chain Singh Rawat to do the Har Ki Dun trek. Expectations: flowers, maybe some snow at the peak. What was in store for us was a
completely new face of one of the most popular treks in India.
We reached Dehradun from Bangalore, via Delhi, and drove straight to Sankhri through the winding scenic hill roads by the towns of Purola and Mori. Check-in at the GMVN TRH was followed by a short acclimatisation walk through Sankhri and Saudh villages. The good news was that the road from Sankhri to Taluka, our first trekking day, was motorable.
The next morning we took a jeep to Taluka and began the trek to Seema. A broken bridge meant a longer route. Three kilometres down after a short rest at a picturesque camping spot above the river Supin, we began the “short, sweet and light climb” (as Chain Singh put it). Knees weaker, but spirits strong, passing lovely red Rhododendrons in full bloom on the slopes, the quaint little village of Dhatmeer was finally in view. We negotiated a slippery descent from Dhatmeer through unexpected rainfall, and reached the village of Gangaur. Alongside were wooden chalets against lush green and yellow mustard fields, pretty enough to give the Swiss cottages a run for their money! The late afternoon sun set the entire valley aglow into an exotic garden. After a quick dinner at the TRH in Seema, we slept amidst loud sounds of rain hitting against the roof.
Snow everywhere
We awoke at 5.30 a.m. to see the entire valley whitewashed! It had snowed, probably for the first time in Seema in April. Melting snow can be dangerous for novices, so we decided to stay back and enjoy the day.
Photos: Sreedevi Purushotham
Uplifting sight: Swargarohini (top) in full moon light and snowed out on the way (above).
The third morning began with a prayer at the Durga temple near the Osla bridge, a steep 30-minute climb from the base. We trekked on to the “Kalkatti Dhaar”, the ridge that offered superb views of the Bandar Poonch and Kala Naag ranges. After lunch at a beautiful waterfall bordered by pines and Bhojpatra trees, things turned tempestuous! Mist and clouds that had already conquered the nearby hills chased us faster than we could walk and soon, we felt the first spray of white powder. Ponchos out again, Chain Singh kept us on our toes with words of encouragement, crossing streams, climbing snow-strewn stones and avoiding tricky edges. The altitude, cold winds, falling snow and the mist made it hard to breathe; forcing shelter under trees. But the thought of a warm log fire and a cup of tea pulled us up to our summit. The view of Swargarohini eluded us, and the clouds covered it the entire evening and night. With all our T shirts and sweat pants on, hot water bottles inside our sleeping bags and weighed down under four thick razais, we forced ourselves to sleep through the cold.
The snow continued, turning the landscape into a white vanilla sundae. Two fellow trekkers from another team who had arrived the same day as us started to return, leaving a tell-tale trail in the thick blanket of snow. We opted to wait another day especially since we had enough food, firewood, trained professionals…and an FM radio with us!
During a brief period of clear weather, we enjoyed the icy warmth outdoors throwing snowballs at the sheets of snow and icicles hanging from the roof. By dusk the weather hadn’t changed much and we prayed for a glimpse of the majestic peak before us. Colder than ever; the water in the basins and buckets had frozen! After a bath in the cold water, Chain Singh headed out bare foot with his puja thali and offered his daily prayers — we joined in, praying for the weather to be kind, for our safe journey back to Seema. At midnight, we woke up to a knock on the door, and Chain Singh stood smiling. The sight outside was most spiritual and unforgettable.
Worth the trouble
The sky was navy blue, the moon shone like a lamp, crystal clear over the divine peak we had walked all this way to see. Throwing all caution to the winds, we ran outside in the chilly air and took in the breathtaking sight. The entire valley transformed itself into an ethereal landscape. We watched the halo around Swargarohini in awe, almost as if Lord Shiva were just at arms length! A contentment and peace settled over the night, making our trek fruitful in more ways than one. It seemed natural that Yudhishtira ascended heaven from this peak. The legend of Swargarohini came alive.
Clear blue sky with not a speck of cloud, greeted us on the fifth morning. Chain Singh led us to the precipice that offered a vantage view of Har-ki-Dun. Serpentine rivulets traversed the snow-covered valley, otherwise a verdant garden in the rains. Using plastic bags taped up to our knees to protect our feet, we began the return descent through thick snow, observing hoof marks of an animal (deer?) around. We made good progress, crossed the ridge and saw the bridge at Seema in the distance. Meeting villagers who were happy to welcome the sunshine and get back to their work in the fields, we thanked the Goddess for our safety and descended to the TRH at Seema.
On the last day of the trek, we took the regular route back from Seema to Taluka, prepared for an extra seven km towards Sankhri. Along the Supin and through dense forests, under maple trees, we were given an interesting class on the edible and medicinal plants of Garhwal. Chain Singh told us tales of the region and its people, how he had started his career in the field as a porter at 16 and his dreams for the betterment and empowerment of the locals. Past the landslide, the jeep picked us for Sankhri.
The trek left us exhausted, but not without everlasting images and a sense of accomplishment that soaks up physical pain and draws one time and again to the Himalayas.
Fact file
Getting there: From Delhi, there are trains to Dehradun, from where one can either take local transport or hire a private jeep for around Rs. 5,000 to drive to Sankhri.
Accommodation: The trekking company provides camping tents and food as a package or one can book basic rooms at the GMVN/Forest Rest House at each point.
Peak Season: Generally May-June (Summer) and July-Sept (Monsoon)
Preparation/What to bring: Fitness through walks/exercise to prepare for the 6-9 hour walks will help. Walking rods, a warm sleeping bag and jackets (especially in colder season), first-aid kit, sunscreen, sunglasses and good comfortable, preferably all-weather shoes (avoid trying out a brand new pair on the trek) are important. There is no dearth of good drinking water along the route.
Contact: We made arrangements for a guide/cook etc through the Har Ki Dun Protection and Mountaineering Association (Mr. Chain Singh Rawat, Sankhri (09412918140) or Mrs. Ranu, Dehradun (0941208952) which proved to be an exceptional group.
For more tips and info on treks, visit http://harkidun.com/
Trek Route
Sankhri-Taluka-Seema-Har Ki Dun-Seema/Osla-Taluka-Sankhri
Sankhri-Taluka (1900m) (About 12 km; motorable if there are no landslides)
Taluka -Seema/Osla (2259m) (Regular route by the river is approx. 14 km, but sometimes landslides may need you to take the longer route (approx. 18 km through Dhatmeer village)
Seema-Har Ki Dun (3566m)(About 12-14 km)
An optional four km trek at HKD to the Jaundhar Glacier is a must do if weather permits.
Debchu Bugyal and Ruinsara Tal are other popular attractions.
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