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Magazine
TIME OUT
City by the sea
DEEPA A.
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St. David’s, Europe’s smallest city, offers a window on Wales’ many charms…
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Photos: Deepa A.
Surviving time: St. David’s Cathedral.
At first the sea looked calm, even if it was the colour of the clouds that ominously hung above our orange jet boat. But a few minutes into the boat trip, the water became choppy and sheets of grey threateningly loomed over us as we cowered in our seats. On both sides lay rugged cliffs, a defining feature of the Pembrokeshire Coastal National Park in Wales, and sheep peered at us from their perilous vantage point on the edge of the crags. For a brief moment, I wondered if our boat would dramatically crash into those beautiful rocks — differently coloured because of algae, our guide had just informed us — but then got sidetracked by a grey seal that bobbed in and out of the water. The guide identified the seal as an old lady, and perhaps with a measure of wisdom that could only come with age, she watched us excited humans with nary a turn of her lovely whiskers. The rain, a fixture of the Welsh landscape that had led to several boat trips being cancelled on that day, was soon forgotten as we spotted other seals, resting in the coves dotting the coast or frolicking in the water.
Water world
Grey seals are not the only residents of the Pembrokeshire Coastal National Park, which spreads over 240 square miles and includes islands such as Ramsey and Skomer. Dolphins, porpoises and whales are to be spotted in its waters while a number of birds, including the puffin and the shearwater, make the park their home. For those who prefer the comforts of terra firma while indulging in bird and animal spotting, there’s a 180-mile long coastal path that runs along the park, offering hikers stunning vistas as bonus.
On the boat, the guide pointed out various birds perched on rocks in the sea or on the cliffs rising above us. Apart from the more common oyster catchers and gulls, we saw fulmars, white and grey birds that live in colonies and have the admirable ability to defend their nests by spitting out foul-smelling oil at intruders. Our boat ride also took us inside caves that would have been filled with water at high tide. After we had spotted a couple of seal snouts inside a cavern, we headed back to St. Justinians Lifeboat Station, from where our boat trip started.
Our base for the trip was St. David’s, situated within the Pembrokeshire Park, and a 10-minute ride away by bus from St. Justinians. St. David’s is considered to be Europe’s smallest city, a status it derives from its cathedral. In reality, it’s more of a pretty village, connected to the closest railway station Haverfordwest by just one bus, making travelling without a car difficult though not impossible.
On our way into St. David’s from Haverfordwest by the said bus, which ran once every hour or so, we were admiring the countryside rushing behind us — fields where hay had been rolled into bales and green hills where Welsh sheep grazed — when suddenly, the road dipped, presenting us with the stunning view of a sea sandwiched between mountains. Meanwhile, on the bus, commuters caught up with each other and I wondered if everyone at St. David’s knew everyone else. Given that St. David’s’ population is pegged at about 2,000, this wouldn’t have been entirely implausible. We reached St. David’s in about 45 minutes and after dropping off our bags at our hotel, we set out to explore the ‘city’.
St. David’s cathedral
At the edge of St. David’s, past the Cross Square and shops selling delicious Welsh ice-creams and chocolates, lies the St. David’s Cathedral. It’s thought to have been founded in the sixth century by the patron saint of Wales, after whom it is named. The structure we see today has undergone extensive modifications across centuries. Among its many exquisite features, the cathedral’s stained glass windows and a stone screen that divides the nave from the choir stand out.
Next to the cathedral lies the Bishop’s Palace, which, even in its current state of ruin, speaks of the wealth and power enjoyed by bishops at one time. The surviving structures were built in the 13th and 14th centuries, and though what we see today is mere stone, an exhibition at the palace gives one an idea of the erstwhile splendour of the palace’s porches, kitchens, halls and chambers.
For a closer view: A boat ride in the Pembrokeshire Coastal National Park.
Back at the Cross Square, we stopped at one of the shops for some fresh ice-cream with delightful names such as ‘Celtic Crunch’ and ‘Blue Lagoon’. Outside a café, hanging on a tree, were wind chimes shaped like dragons for sale. The fiery dragon is the Welsh emblem, but at that moment, swaying in the wind under an overcast sky, the fire-spewing mythical creature seemed content and almost docile.
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QUICK FACTS
Getting there: Many airlines fly to London from various Indian cities. Trains connect London to Haverfordwest, from where Bus 411 runs almost every hour to St. David’s. The service is significantly reduced on Sundays. Taxis are also available near the station.
Accommodation: There are several youth hostels, hotels and bed and breakfasts, within and around St. David’s.
Things to see and do: Apart from the cathedral and Bishop’s Palace at St. David’s, the other main historical attraction at Pembrokeshire is the Pembroke Castle. Adventure activities on offer at the park include surfing and rock climbing, among others. At St. David’s, there are many agencies offering these and a range of boat trips.
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