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Tasteful chikan kari
PICTURE THIS . Silhouette of a monument, Raag Megh Malhar in the background, and a chikankari work duppatta fluttering in the breeze. Picture this. Somewhere in Europe, a model walking the ramp in organza finery, intricately embroidered in chikankari. Picture a bevy of giggling college girls in colourful Lucknowi work salwar kameez or picture the bride walking up the aisle in a beautiful self embroidered chikanwork sari. Last but not the least, picture the perfect white, starched crisply embroidered kurta of the neta. The common thread running in all these frames is of the needle and thread craft that transforms the plain fabric into a rich one.
The craft of chikankari.
It is said God sent a traveller, Ustad Mohammed Shahir Khan to teach the craft. After doing so, the man disappeared and till today his mazar or tomb in Lucknow is worshipped by the karigars (craftsmen) of chikan work. It is in this craft that the romance of Oudh and Lucknow is perpetuated.
Today, with embroidery ruling the roost in fashion, the evergreen chikankari is once again topping style charts.
Kochi, is all too familiar with the craft as chikankari clothes are visible in everyday wear of the city wallahs. Manju Jalota, who has been bringing chikankari sale to the city for the past eight years, is once again here with a range that is refreshingly different.
Typical of U.P, chikan work is soft and summery, and is done, mainly by the Muslim community. Ms. Jalota who has been awarded the Bharat Jyothi award for organising the embroidery units in several villages enabling hundreds of families find work and livelihood, takes the sale to interior towns of Kanjirapally and Palakkad in Kerala.
Keeping in step with changing clothes' styles, Jalota, innovates every time she creates a new line. Introducing badla work, zardosi, and tie and dye patterns, to traditional chikan work she has moved from conventional fabrics like terry voile, organdie and cotton to crepes and chiffons.
The craft of chikankari uses a variety of stitches from simple running stitch, back, satin, herringbone and button hole stitch, to transform the plain fabric into a piece of art. It is originally embroidery in white thread upon fine white cloth, the effect depending on the usage of stitches and contrast of different grades of thread, to form lace like patterns, opaque fillings and delicate or bold emphasis of outlines. It is the finesse of the workmanship that decides the quality and the price.
So if you want your wardrobe to be classy, sophisticated, elegant, dainty and of course exclusive, be sure to possess chikankari attire. And also be sure that it will never go out of style. A sale of chikan worked clothes will be on at Bharat Tourist Home on November 21 and 22.
PRIYADARSSHINI SHARMA
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