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Pearl of the Danube
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Budapest has everything - beauty, style, celebrated thermal springs, and of course the great Danube river lazily snaking through the lovely city. INDER RAJ AHLUWALIA takes us on a tour of this graceful metropolis.
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FROM THE Buda side, the view is nothing short of staggering. Perched at a vantage point on Castle Hill, one takes in the panoramic sweep of which one has heard so much. The spires of Parliament and the famous Chain Bridge seem awash in the golden light of the evening, their reflections on the river combining with the dotted lights of Pest to create a beautiful spectacle.
It is exactly as advertised, but more telling than any tourist brochure. It takes just one quick look at local architecture to see that it took an Empire to build the city. This is evident not only from the local buildings' grand proportions and styles, but also their precise locations. They point to organised construction, and reflect vintage and proud culture that mirrors centuries of Hungarian history.
How then does one describe Budapest? Part beauty and style, part indomitable spirit and part urban grace. And then there is the Danube River - the city's pulse - snaking lazily through the metropolis, dividing it into two sections - Old World Buda on one side and vibrant Pest on the other. Straddled on both sides of the river, Budapest offers some of Europe's most spectacular views.
Claiming proud lineage with the Magyar tribes that founded Hungary nearly 1,100 years ago, Budapest is almost overburdened with history. What one sees today is not just a city with two million inhabitants, but a grand icon of the past showing the influence of Roman times, of 16th and 17th Century Turkish domination, and of that grand era when Austria's Habsburg dynasty ruled the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
One sees an imperial touch in major buildings whose imposing size and precise location was obviously part of a grand building plan. A sense of order is visible, with shopping malls, supermarkets, and office buildings set in perfect harmony with the sprawling Heroes' Square neatly bordered by the elegant St. Stephen's Basilica, and with the Neo-Classical Museum of Fine Arts.
Architectural brilliance shines from the buildings of Castle Hill. And none more so than the Neo-gothic Matthias Church, the imposing Royal Palace that also houses the National Gallery and its art treasures, and the seven turreted Fishermen's Bastion. Built at the beginning of the 20th Century, the Fishermen's Bastion with its turrets commemorating the seven Magyar tribes that founded Hungary is a priceless monument.
Buda and Pest happily compliment each other, the former's historical legacy in sharp contrast with the latter's modern-day bustle. While Buda is all old-world charm, Pest is the city's commercial heartbeat, symbol of a country on the move. Here, in the glittering Vaci Utca, the country's most chic and upscale boutiques tempt shoppers with the latest in fashion jewellery and designer clothes.
The city's greatest attraction is its celebrated collection of thermal spring baths.Developed during the 16th and 17th Century Turkish occupation, the bath culture has not only survived through the ages, but actually flourished. The Turks nurtured them, the Romans enjoyed them, and the Hungarians have clung to them.
The choice is vast and exciting. At one end of the spectrum are several famous old spas like the Kiraly, the Rudas, and the Racs, and on the other, baths from recent Hungarian times, notably the lavish Szechenyi Baths at the City Park, and the wonderful Art Nouveau Gellert Baths.
The local oasis and a sanctuary of forest, flower-beds, manicured lawns, and elaborate sports facilities - that is Margaret Island, located in the middle of the Danube, always good for a pleasant afternoon's diversion. One can inhale deeply and breathe in the pure air while keeping up a brisk pace. Through the year, some 350 exhibitions, concerts, cinemas, and folklore programmes animate the city.
Budapest by night is what one makes it. Assorted theatre, the opera, concerts at the Vigado and famous casinos like Casino Budapest and the Varkert Casino add meaning to the night. There is plenty going, but one has to find the action. Café New York and the venerable Café Gerbeaud remain as grand icons of the glorious days of the Habsburgs' rule of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The international classic, Gundel, is still serving creative versions of traditional Hungarian cuisine. But also strong on quality food and atmosphere are several less pretentious establishments strung across the city.
Each season has something to offer. March sees the celebration of the lively Spring Festival, the summer rocks to the Budapest Fair and the Opera Festival, followed in sequence by the Autumn Festival, the International Fair, the Wine Festival, and the Music Festival. There are bright lights and soft lights, and this is a city of soft lights.
The city is a year-round destination, but the winters require one to carry woolens. The most convenient way to fly from India is via Vienna or Frankfurt, both of which have daily flights to the city.
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