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Fragments of history
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Alamparai: magnificent ruins with the sea as a backdrop, says SHALINI UMACHANDRAN
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Pic. by Shalini Umachandran
THIS IS definitely one for the Road Less Travelled. Intense searches on the Internet, numerous calls to historians and visits to libraries couldn't dredge up any information on this once French fort, Alamparai. The only two references to it were in an untranslatable German document, and in one digitised document making a passing reference to it as Allemparva, on the Coromandel Coast.
A two-hour drive down the East Coast Road — about 100 km — desperately peering at road signs, and you sight the luminous green signboard announcing Kadapakkam. In the centre of this settlement is a path to the left leading to the fort and the backwaters. About two-and-a-half kilometres down this picture perfect road, with gentle backwaters and white beaches, a sandy track turns right and you bounce your way down a rough track to the Alamparai fort.
The magnificent ruins are overrun by weeds and vegetation. Though crumbling, the entire front wall stands fairly tall, with what must have been watchtowers on the two outer corners. But be prepared for a trek through sand and thorns. All that is left of the fort is portions of weathered red brick, but the original brick and limestone can still be seen. A climb to the old watchtowers gives a brilliant view of the area around and the sea on the east side.
Though the 15-acre fort was built in the 18th Century (as the helpful ASI sign at the site informs you), the area served as a port in ancient Tamil Nadu. Even the ancient Tamil text "Siruppanatruppadai" refers to trade in the area. The fort had a 100-metre long dockyard, stretching into the sea from the fort, from which zari cloth, salt and ghee were exported. The fort was later transferred to the French commander Dupleix "for services rendered". In 1760, the British destroyed Alamparai, (though it is not mentioned explicitly, one assumes Robert Clive led the attacks, because most references to Dupleix mention Clive destroying Dupleix's settlements) and did a good job of it for what remains today is the ruins of the little the British left standing.
On the east side of the fort is a marvellous view of the backwaters. The waters lap gently against the edges of the fort, and you can see the sea in the distance. The hypnotic blue of the sky and the sea are soothing. A boat ride along the backwaters is another exciting possibility. Some recent history - parts of the Vikram-and-Surya-starrer "Pithamagan" were shot at the fort, says a chatty local. Fresh fish from the fisherfolks' evening catch is on sale in the village of Kadapakkam.
But unless you have a riotous imagination (which is not necessarily historically accurate) that can dream up majestic walls towering over the beautiful beach, fantastic battles, sentries shooting arrows through peepholes, caparisoned elephants making their way to the fort, French soldiers gazing across the sea and wild bush to sight enemies, British cannons bombarding the seemingly impenetrable wall and soldiers wandering through the remains of the destroyed fort, this is really not a place to visit. For, to the unimaginative, it's just a hunk of mouldering rocks overgrown with weeds and shrubs. And if you're six years old, it's the perfect place to play pirates or hide and seek.
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