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Game for adventure?
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Mundanthurai: Want to court Nature, then this one is for you, say PRASSANA SRINIVASAN and SHALINI UMACHANDRAN
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WE SET off for the Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve, equipped with just the barest of knowledge about survival in the forest, totally unfit-for-trekking sandals and big dreams of spotting exotic wild animals. A week of running around trying to get the required permission left us harried, despite the fact that we were looking forward to an exhilarating and adventurous time in a forest we knew nothing about.
We finally begin the journey and get off the train at Tirunelveli only to discover that none of the locals have heard of Mundanthurai. "Whoa! Quite an RLT," we decide and hop on to a bus going in the general direction of the reserve. One-and-a-half hours of gazing out of battered bus windows at dusty villages, green fields and patches of water, where pink-legged birds in all their morning glory are deciding on their plan of action for the day, and we finally hit the road bordering the Western Ghats, which takes us to the Forest Rest House.
There is a certain charm to Mundanthurai — the climate, the towering peaks, the rivers, the scenic beauty and the people come together to make it more than just a forest. The ranger talks about the various herbs available in the forest — they're cures for all kinds of illnesses and elixirs of immortality, he promises us. After being long lectures from the ranger about his philosophy of life and the "ills of modern society," we begin our real travel into the forest. A seven-kilometre trek from Kodamaadi, through what the Forest Department has classified as a core area, takes us to Kooduparai. Though the path is a little steep and deeply forested, the real challenge lies in the last three kilometres over rocks and through a swift-flowing creek.
Lesson 1. Watch every step. (I didn't and slipped off a wet rock into the water, putting my binoculars to great risk.)
Kooduparai is an amalgamation of rocks of varying sizes, shapes and colours — most of them are streaked red due to copper deposits in the rocks. And in the narrow gap between two really tall rocks, a bubbling river gushes out to form a natural untouched silver cascade. Surrounded by lofty green mountains, the rushing sound of the water and a benevolently blowing breeze create a calmness that makes you feel all the walking and slipping on rocks is definitely worth it. There's a tiny rock shrine dedicated to Amman at the far end of the falls.
Dream sequences in films were shot at Kooduparai, till the Forest Department declared it a restricted core forest area. Just when we're in the mood for some more difficult trekking, the ranger insists that we get back before dark. So we do the whole trudge, climb, slip, slide and binocular-dropping routine in reverse. With the crickets buzzing in the background, our guide tells us of his exploits and encounters with wild animals.
Night is falling as our jeep takes us back to our rest house and we peer into the dark, lonely forest hoping to glimpse a couple of animals. Designated as a wildlife sanctuary in 1976, Mundanthurai is home to the sambar, sloth bear, Nilgiri tahr, tiger, Malabar squirrel, panther, leopard, wild dog and other exotic species of reptiles and birds. Just as we give up hope of spotting so much as a gnat, a sloth bear, alarmed by the sound of our jeep's engine, lumbers across the road. We have hardly recovered from the sight of the bear, when we spot a mighty leopard sitting on an embankment by the road. Glaring at us for having interrupted its peace, it leaps off gracefully and glides into the forest. (Cool fact: There are just about 40 leopards in the forest and we manage to spot one! Aren't we lucky?) There are hordes of other places to visit in the forest if you are an avid trekker and a Nature lover.
The highlight of the Mundanthurai forest is the Agasthiar Peak. It is the third largest peak in South India (1,681m) and is home to some of the rare herbs that our ranger friend constantly refers to.
Unfortunately for us, a visit to the Agasthiar peak and falls is just a dream that cannot be realised as the trek can take up to three days and we have to head back to keep to our schedule. Lesson 2: Allot ample time, as trekking always leaves you yearning for more.
How to get there:
Nearest railway station: Tirunelveli
Regular buses ply from the Pudu Bus Stand to Papanasam, catch a local bus to the Forest Rest House
Alternatively, you could take a cab to cover the distance.
Nearest airport: Madurai
Where to stay:
Mundanthurai Forest Rest House — if you have the right papers, signed, stamped and attested by the Chief Wildlife Warden, Chennai — Rs. 200 a night, exclusive of food
What to take:
A pair of binoculars
Sturdy sneakers or trekking shoes
Insect repellent (we figured this one out the hard way)
Light clothing, including a hat and a raincoat
Best time to visit:
June to September.
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