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On a different ramp
EYE ON THE COST: A model in a Sabyasachi Mukherjee's creation.
HE HAS no qualms about reasonable price tags , his creations are international yet practical, his fun on the ramp doesn't limit the functionality aspect. Sabyasachi Mukherjee is designing a new trend. Fresh from the success of his show `Frog Princess' at the recently concluded Lakme India Fashion Week, which surprised some for its clean cuts and retro look but most for its unusual presentation where models were shown as if they were strolling into the unknown, Sabyasachi won the acclaim that mattered - a tie-up with the Browns of the U.K. The Hong Kong-based Sanskrit store has also shown an interest in his outfits.
"I wanted to do something romantic for people who do not want to wear a messy look. Hence the clean cuts and organised silhouettes. I have always done something different with the models to keep the concentration on the clothes." He is the leader of the brigade that mixes style and cost with ease, much to the discomfort of his seniors. In fact, many seniors including one of his favourites Rajesh Pratap Singh followed his presentation and one friend, Puja Nayar almost copied his last year's theme - an all-white collection against war. Sabyasachi still calls his friend, "intelligent".
Priced between Rs.600 and 11,000 Sabyasachi managed to limit his price tags within the prêt budget without compromising on the style or his favourite outfit, sari. "The requirements of this platform are different. Here the attempt was to reach out to the middle class, and more and more designers are realising the importance of this untapped section, particularly in India which demands wearable international style at an affordable price," he says, adding when it comes to bridal wear, his work knows no limitations.
Soon after LIFW he flew to Miami for American Fashion Week, where Indian designers showcased their collections for the first time and got rave reviews. Also busy creating outfits for Sanjay Leela Bhansali's much talked about Black, Sabyasachi's professional commitment doesn't allow him to reveal anything about these, but he admits that the budget approach has taught him to limit his creativity without sacrificing the look. "In films you have to arrive at a common ground with the filmmaker, because after all it is his story and the costumes are helping in narrating the story. However, I feel that Indian directors should get more realistic about what they make their characters wear. A woman can't wear the same sari in the kitchen as she has been wearing to sing a song. That way Sanjay is different," he apprises, refusing to affirm whether he is designing for Sanjay's next, Bajirao Mastani as well.
Sabyasachi loves the sari, dal chawal and Kolkata. "Kolkata inspires me and keeps me away from the competitive and `inspiring' world of fashion."
ANUJ KUMAR
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