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Kolli Hills: more than black magic, says PRASSANA SRINIVASAN
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FOR A chronic sufferer of motion sickness, I find myself surprised to emerge unscathed from the one-and-a-half-hour journey — through 70 tight hairpins, along curves that sweep precariously along the mountain face and a road that is blanketed with mist. Finding that there are no direct buses from Salem, my friend and I hire a cab to make the 100 km journey to Kolli Hills.
We start making the ascent even before we realise it, the bustle of the Salem highway gracefully giving way to the ghat road. The 1,190 m-high Kolli Hills is situated at the tail end of the Eastern Ghats and forms part of the Talaghat stretch.
After having freshened up at one of the few resorts atop the hills, the driver promises to ferry us to an "amazing waterfall, the only attraction in this small hill station." This doesn't seem like a bad idea as before venturing up, I had been told that Kolli Hills is famous for little more than the practice of witchcraft, voodoo and black magic.
Akasagangai is three kilometres from the Sri Arapaleeswarar temple. A flight of 700-odd steps leads to the base of the falls. The weather is pleasant and the flesh is willing, and we decide to make the journey downwards. Halfway down, as the steps get steeper and the sounds of water crashing against the rocks become louder, I am not sure it is such a good idea. The sight of exhausted travellers wearily hauling themselves on the way back is a reminder that what goes down must also come up.
Heading further down at the urging of my indefatigable friend, I find the steps becoming narrower and that there are a crop of extremely slippery rocks at the base of the waterfall. Disappointment: there are several adventurous pilgrims already splashing and soaking in the water spray. Unenthusiastic about sharing the water with strangers and irritated by the ubiquitous litter of plastic, we head back — my fit friend nimbly negotiating the steps while I huff and puff and remind myself to stay with the early morning workouts.
The area offers ample opportunities for trekking. Since the weather is pleasant most of the day, it's a good idea to just walk through the meandering paths that traverse the hills. There are ashrams that offer calm, scenic spaces for those who want to do some soul searching. Though you could engage in serious timepass just as well by sitting beside a stream with a hot cup of chai. Kolli Hills is far from spectacular. I rummage my mind for adjectives and decide pleasant would strike the correct note.
History has it that a popular king, Valvil Ori, ruled in this area, and there is a statue of him to remind us of this. Oddly enough, many locals believe that a visit to the statue brings bad luck.
"Anyone visiting the statue is certain to be transferred from the present job," says the guide. Just as well, I suppose. My legs may have ached for days afterwards but then, I still hold my job.
How to get there:
By bus: There are direct buses from Namakkal to Kolli Hills.
Best way up: Taxi from Salem.
Where to stay: A smattering of resorts, but don't expect five star, or even four, three or two for that matter.
Travel tips: Almost everything is imported from the plains, so make sure you order your food in advance in one of the resorts. Carry mosquito repellent (I learnt this the hard way). Windcheaters are essential
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Metro Plus
Bangalore
Chennai
Coimbatore
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Kochi
Madurai
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Visakhapatnam
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