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Muttukadu II

Paramankeni: actually, it's more like Pulicat, discovers PRASSANA SRINIVASAN


JUST WHEN we believed we had covered the best of the least-known destinations along the East Coast Road for this column, we discovered Paramankeni — a stretch of unexplored backwater that had slipped our attention. "Very picturesque, very pleasant yet unexplored — this might just be a perfect destination for the column," advised my colleague. After some frantic map-gathering, googling and hours on the phone, I finally set out to unearth this bit of land, or rather sea.

About 90 km from Chennai, on the road to Pondicherry, lies this fishing village, known for its prawn and jellyfish population. The locals thrive on fishing, but boat rides for commercial purposes are only slowly catching on.

Although the locals affectionately call Paramankeni Muttukadu II, the area seems to be more of a fishing ground than anything else. Apart from the occasional tender coconut vendor, it is deserted. I enquire whether there is something more to do besides just boat rides and fishing. "Boating is the only attraction here, don't even expect a tea shop for a short snack," says the tender coconut vendor. If I want a boat ride, I am better off going back to Muttukadu, he suggests.

Undeterred, I take the small bridge off the ECR that leads to this peaceful village. The sun is at its peak, but with nothing to do besides clambering on a boat, I do exactly that. Trying to capture the entire stretch of water on my camera, I cannot help thinking how much the village that leads up to the backwaters resembles Pulicat.

The line of trees bordering the shore, the fishermen on their catamarans and the brilliant blue expanse of water — the sea of silence envelops me. It feels as if it's just me and Nature for company, but that's all right. Given the setting and my mood, three would have been a crowd.

Unlike Pulicat, Paramankeni is not populated by exotic birds (at the most you will see, and this, if you are lucky, are kingfishers). This is a negative but the score evens out if you consider that unlike Pulicat, Paramankeni does not have a smelly fish market.

The bottom line? If you think Pulicat is too problematic to reach and that Muttukadu has already been run over with hordes of noisy tourists, then Paramankeni is the best bet. Although it doesn't advertise itself as an exotic locale, it might just be the kind of place for a quiet and contemplative evening.

Paramankeni and its adjoining village Mudaliyarkuppam, now boast of a TTDC boathouse situated close to the ECR.

With an economy driven by fishing, the villagers in this area have for long depended on the sea to make a living. But with some people coming in, it seems set to become a dot on the tourist map.

How to get there:

Paramankeni is well connected by road. Take any bus that goes to Pondicherry, and request the conductor to stop at Mudaliyarkuppam. However, the best option is to hire a cab from Chennai. There are no places to stay. There are no eateries in sight, either, so pack food if you are planning to take a long boat ride.

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