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A gastronomic revolution
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Thiruvananthapuram is waking up to a completely new epicurean adventure
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FRENCH REVOLUTION ... Russian Revolution... Cuban Revolution... Gastronomic Revolution... Now, even before you start thinking the `sacrilege' word, allow us to tell you that this is no figment of our imagination, nor some kind of hype. Slowly but surely, Thiruvananthapuram is waking up to a completely new epicurean adventure.
Nowhere is this transformation more evident than in the number of bakeries that have sprung up in the city in the past couple of years. Niki Nikitas, Alne Le Pastry Shop, Quickbites, Mr. Brown The Bakers Planet... The list goes on...
Death by Chocolate, Drums of Heaven, Panini, Nutty Corner, Foccacias, Coffee Bean Gateaux may be fancy names, but by no means are they all fluff and no substance.
These absolutely decadent confections, among other things, are what have been drawing the new-age yuppies to the bakeries. The latest to jump on to the bandwagon is Plenitude, the bakery near Vydyuthi Bhavan at Pattom. Though Plenitude is trying to find its feet a month after the inauguration, it is not the old world bakery where beetroot samosas and parippu vadas were washed down with a cuppa. Pramila Gomez, exposed to Western food during her long years in the Gulf countries, wanted to model Plenitude on similar lines.
Though the menu card does not stray far from the regular croissants, burgers and pizzas that line the shelves of other bakeries in town, Plenitude has quite a few things going for it. Simple yet upmarket interiors, seating capacity for 20 (nothing like exchanging gossip over some orange trifle, is there?) and decent parking space are what go down well with the Generation X. Pramila recommends her prawn pizzas, cardamom pizzas and garlic bread topped with olives, onion, and rosemary.
In an industry where the rate of failure is very high, it is too early to tell what lies in store for Plenitude. The trick lies in running profitably on a sustained basis but cases of people being taken in by appearances and living to regret the decision are many.
Good faith
Michel David of the four-decade-old St. Michel's Bakery at Plamoodu, Pattom, echoes the same thought. A third-generation businessman, Michel too has been forced to keep pace with the changing times. "We used to stock only a few varieties of pastries and puffs. With more and more youngsters asking for stuffed rolls, burgers and pizzas, we have included these too in the menu."
But that is not all at St. Michel's. The variety of pastries they have has gone up to 20 (pralines and French vanilla are some of them), chocolate and butterscotch éclairs have made their appearances, so too have fudge and fruit and nut tarts. Tables lined up on one side of the shop have taken St. Michel's a few notches up on the foodies' list.
The oldest bakery in town, Santha Bakery and Stores, with branches at Pulimoodu, Vazhuthacaud and Narmada Shopping Complex, Kaudiar, has not been so lucky.
Says Premnath, one of the owners: "We were the first to introduce doughnuts and pizzas three decades ago but found no takers."
Things, however, are different today. The bakery has quite a few loyal clients among the middle-aged and the elderly but has not been able to make much headway with the youth. "We have introduced a few more varieties of pastries but are not in an expansion mode. Nor do we have any space for our customers to sit and eat," says Premnath. Their ghee cake and sugar-less bread still have many takers. The bakery also lays store by quality ingredients and involvement with customers.
Niki Nikitas, at Kaudiar, is a foodies' paradise. Their yummy pastries have made the outlet a haunt of those with a sweet tooth. Into its second year, Niki, along with the restaurant, Nikitas, is doing well despite being in the middle of a residential sector.
"What Kochi had witnessed in the 1990s is what is happening in Thiruvananthapuram now," says N. Ravichandran, general manager. The pastry shop takes great pride in customer satisfaction. "In most bakeries, there is rarely any interaction between the staff and the customers. Here, the customers are explained what is on offer and guided by our staff to make their choice," Ravi adds. Take your pick of the scrumptious chocolate fruit tart or some divine mango gateaux here. Self-help counters and seating capacity add to the appeal of Niki. Tie-ups with various educational institutions ensure many a lifelong convert to the Niki flavour.
Quickbites, near Overbridge, has attempted a combination of the old and new. Fast-food items such as pizzas and burgers line the shelves right next to traditional bakery items such as laddoo and jalebis. Apart from the usual puffs, one can gorge on the appetising Chettinad puffs, and Danish chicken puffs (chicken cooked in Chinese masala and melted in cheese Danish style) at Quickbites. Open pizza (topped with chicken cooked in Punjabi masala and baby corn) is yet another of their specialities, along with Pepper chicken fried roll. Their Dark nut cake, Carrot cake and Mederian cake have many a taker. Competition from other bakeries does not worry them. Says Afzal, manager: "When new bakeries open, it is but natural that people want to try them out. But our clients are back in no time, for we do not compromise on quality for the sake of price." A different menu card for each day of the week ensures a constant stream of food enthusiasts.
Annas Arcade plays host to Haut Breads, earlier part of the Hot Breads chain. Cheery interiors with chairs in colours such as red, blue, yellow and orange, and secluded nooks increase its appeal. A variety of pastries and cakes apart, Haut Breads has a long list of pizzas. The Mega Supreme pizza is available in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian versions. The Mint n' Margherita and Baked Bean pizzas are meant for veggies, while Texaco (minced meat, chicken and onion) and ginger chicken pizza (chicken, ginger, onion, capsicum) are what non-vegetarians could opt for. Their Classic n' Cheese sandwich and Sunny Side Up Veg n' Cheese sandwich are good and come with French fries. Top it all with a Shine Special Sundae (fruits, rich fruit plum cake and ice cream) and your day is made.
Successful transformation
One place that people want to go and be seen in is Ambrosia at Bakery Junction. There is seldom a dull moment here, not least due to its successful transformation into a bakery-cum-fast food joint. Ambrosia has managed to sustain its magic for over nine years because of constant experimentation. Says Cuckoo Vinod: "Youngsters want to try something new every time they go out."
The Non-Resident Indian (NRI) crowd in the city makes a beeline for the shop, as do employees of various media institutions. Ambrosia has something for everyone. They tweak things a bit to "Indianise some of the flavours". So, you have Chicken Chettinad pizza as also Chilly chicken tikka. Their Bakehouse Speciality pizza topped with olives, pepperoni, bacon, salami, sausages and mushroom is not to be missed. Food apart, impromptu parties and get togethers for occasions such as Valentine's Day and New Year have endeared Ambrosia to youngsters.
Another hotspot
Swiss Bake House and Café at Vellayambalam is yet another hotspot of the younger set in the city. Its spacious settings and idyllic atmosphere make it a perennial haunt of couples on the lookout for space to share sweet nothings.
The menu card with more than a whiff of European cuisine is a hit with locals and tourists alike. Swiss Emphandas and Swiss `Schenkeli' are usually made during the tourist season lasting from November to March. Swiss roll, Danish pastry, raisin bread, carrot puffs, apple pies, coffee éclairs, and almond roachers are some of other confections that it is known for.
With bakeries whipping up one delicious goodie after another, it is time to eat, drink and make merry.
R. K. ROSHNI
Photos: S. Gopakumar
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