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Warp and woof of love
DESIGNS ON INDIA: Pakistani designers make their presence felt in New Delhi. Photo: Rajeev Bhatt.
THEY HAVE no reservations in being seen as part of the same fabric but like individual motifs they want to stand out. They accept the similarities in the two markets but don't see the big brother monopolising their markets. Healthy is the word tagged along with competition when the Pakistani designers participating in the Bride and Groom Exhibition speak to the media.
If Najeeba Zulfiqar of Bejes is presenting a fusion collection, Asma Khan is expecting to woo customers with purity of craft. And Amna and Amber's work puts many couturiers in India in place. "Our work is for today's woman. There is ample use of jamawar, stones and swarovski crystals in the fishtail lehengas, skirt lehengas and Egyptian lehengas that I am showcasing. But at the same we have said good-bye to gota and other heavy work. We are working with threads, beads and crystals. Western influence is there but we are not allowing it to run over us," says Najeeba, the Manish Malhotra of Lollywood, who would soon be designing for her favourite model and star Meera, making her debut with a Mahesh Bhatt production.
Asma, also from Lahore is flirting with Moghul style. "I am presenting the royal farshi lehengas and Dilli cut lehengas where the flare starts from knee-height." Then she has light embroidered shrararas matched with heavily embroidered shirts. And to keep the modernists happy she has ghagra cholis and noodle strapped blouses. "But I don't want to blend the two beyond a limit."
Some differences
Amna of Resham and Revaj feels beyond the obvious similarities between the craft of two countries there are some essential differences. "The flavour is different. We emphasise detailed handicrafts, which is not the case here. Then cuts are also different. People here don't wear salwar kameez as we do and we can't drape sari with the elegance ladies do here."
Amna admits satellite television has made its impact in Pakistan. "Serials like Kyunki Saas Bhi Kabhie Bahu Thi have a following back home and as far as dressing is concerned they do sway people. But right now most of it is limited to colours. There is demand for brighter shades. As sari is not our daily wear it can't have much of an impact. However, over a period of time it may influence tastes." And as for noodle straps and bare backs Amna shares they are still limited to ramps unlike India.
They have carried their dreams as well if Amna's partner Amber desires to have an outlet in Delhi, Najeeba doesn't mind working with Indian designers dressing up Pakistan stars. Commercially they are eyeing two markets at the time, personally they are longing for a land that was theirs.
ANUJ KUMAR
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