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Draped in quality
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Going by the demand for the Madurai towels in the export sector, Sellur is set to become another Tiruppur, says T. SARAVANAN
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Bringing everything together for a global need.
IT MAY be hard to believe that products manufactured by residents of dingy Sellur streets are a major foreign exchange earner for the Temple City? It is the towel industry that originated here and now flourishes earning reputation for the place and its people for the quality product.
Standing solid for over a century, the weavers of Sellur have now also taken to other interests like weaving dhotis and sarees from other fabric. But ironically, for 10,000-odd handloom weavers, the introduction of powerlooms started working against them as gradually dhotis and sarees became the products of powerlooms.
Export potential
The handloom sector started concentrating on the towel industry, which earned them the much desired work order. Initially there were no takers for towels with domestic requirement being only 15 to 20 per cent of the market. But once export potential for handloom towels was realised, everyone turned to towel manufacturing.
Sellur's main export markets are United States of America, United Kingdom and other European countries. But of late, stiff competition is apparently coming from China, Pakistan and Bangladesh. Reason being greater cotton cultivation and cheaper cotton rates.
"The rate of interests on loans offered in these countries is also very low. At present, we are surviving because of our superior quality. But to sustain the momentum, a comprehensive plan to modernise the industriy is the need of the hour," stresses M. Balasubramanian, Secretary, Tamil Nadu Handloom Cloth Manufacturers Federation.
Among the different varieties of towels, the popular ones are Barmop, Jacquard and Terry towels. Barmop towels usually reach the market in pure white shade giving it lesser patronage. The Jacquard has two varieties - the superior quality called `mini' and the comparatively inferior quality called `half'.
Manufacturers' darling
The darling of the manufacturers, however, remains the "Terry towel" given its overwhelming global patronage. These towels are cheaper and usually purchased by foreign countries in bulk for use and throw purpose. "These towels can be manufactured both in the handlooms and powerlooms. The raw material comes from Rajapalayam, Virudhunagar, Sivakasi, Coimbatore and Pollachi," according to P. Ramamoorthy of Rana Texs.
"The last decade has seen the decline in the number of handlooms in Sellur due to drought and Government policies," he adds. When compared, a handloom produces around 3 kg of towel in a day against 20 kg in the Powerloom. "But then the handloom product is undoubtedly more softer," Mr. Ramamoorthy asserts.
Mr. Balasubramanian laments the Indian Government's participation in total world export market at 0.75 per cent. But is hopeful that it would be doubled in the next five years.The target set for textiles exports is $50 billion by 2010 as against $15 billion at present, he says.
"In order to give a boost to the industry, the Government floated a Textiles Upgradation Fund for 1999-2004 and earmarked Rs. 25,000 crores for the purpose with five per cent subsidy on rate of interest. But so far, only 25 per cent of the amount has been utilised," Mr. Balasubramanian notes with concern.
In countries like China, spinning, weaving, processing and finishing all activities are centralised at one place minimising the overhead charges. But in India, the scene is exactly opposite and leads to wastage of time, money and labour.
While the Centre has cancelled all taxes on yarn and textile products, the State still levies sales tax on hank yarn. Mr. Balasubramanian strongly suggests waiving off these taxes to give a boost to the industry.
With the domestic requirement going down, the towel industry is now dependent on foreign market. This has ensured the manufacturers' interest in improving the quality of the towels and better marketing opportunities. For the 20,000 people directly involved and another 40,000 indirectly dependent, the towel industry holds great promise with good export potential.
The textiles export of the Temple City is estimated at Rs.250 crore per year. With proper Government support, the figure can be doubled, say the makers.
Perhaps Sellur is another Tiruppur (known for its hosiery business) in the making if all support and sops come in right measures at the right time.
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