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Designed differently
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Hemant Sagar speaks sense, a rarity in his profession. Meet the designer who has won the Swarovski Trophy this year.
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A sound backup - Hemant Sagar flaunting the trophy with model Monikangna Dutta. Photo: S. Subramanium.
HE IS not found on Page 3, he doesn't try to impress with `weird' gestures and he doesn't want to dress you in bizarre outfits. Still Hemant Sagar is a designer and now he has a trophy to flaunt for his designer deeds. The winner of the first Swarovski Trophy for contribution to pręt a porter, Hemant defines himself and his work as fusion.
"I was born to a German mother and a father from Lyalpur in Delhi. I spent my childhood in South Delhi and went to St. Xavier's College. So a sense for Indian sensibilities came naturally to me," relates Hemant. But that's one part of him. He discovered his calling in Germany and after learning the basics of the trade, joined the prestigious Ecoles de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture in Paris. Then why pręt?
"Well, the school taught me discipline and the ability to experiment with my creativity. I started with couture but soon realised could not make one-off clothes for a very select clientele," he reasons. "But that doesn't mean I make one dollar clothes as many in India do. My range averages between 60-70 dollars."
Meanwhile, he met a French friend Didier Lacoanet, who was also in love with India and together they started their label Lacoanet Hemant.
Hemant started his studio in Gurgaon some two years back, and is perhaps only international designer whose almost entire collection is made in India. Hemant asserts he is just not for outsourcing embroidery unlike like most western designers and takes proper care of his artisans "We do not chuck them out if there is no work for a month. Within a year if all goes well we are going to sell in India as well."
Sensible clothes
Commenting on the Indian fashion industry, Hemant finds designers taking their work too casually. "Making good saleable and sensible clothes is real hard work. Here, most people think partying and making statements is enough. They are working as separate cottage industries where they just make prototypes, which could fit only on a perfect figure. Make them for different sizes and they lose their identity. This is not fashion. My winning the trophy proves you don't need to be in the right party to be recognised." However, he finds Rajesh Pratap Singh and Tarun Tahiliani's work interesting. He continues, "What's missing here is research and development, basic for any industry. If you keep on doing the same trousseau, same heavy stuff over and over again, things are not going to change your way."
He concurs swarovski lost its appeal in India because people overdid it in India. "I dilute their glitter. Say cover the pink spaghetti top with swarovski crystals with a black short top in chiffon." In fact, he suggests this for the coming winter with a silver coated leather jacket and slim pants.
Hemant, 47, finds the increasing use of Indian idols and Bollywood motifs by western designers (recently Milan Fashion Week was full of such stuff which has been done to death in Indian by the likes of Manish Arora) as amusing.
"West is getting too much inspired by Indian spirituality. That's why it is finding its expression on the clothes. Though I don't mind wearing such clothes but I would not like to design such stuff because I know what Indian spirituality stands for."
ANUJ KUMAR
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