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The hidden jewel
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Pangong Tso lake near the Chushul mountains on the Indo-Tibet border is a mini ocean in the lap of virgin nature, changing its colour with every passing hour. MURLI MENON comes back enamoured.
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GEOGRAPHICAL WONDER: A glimpse of the scenic Pangong Tso lake in Leh.
THE EXPERIENCE of landing at Leh airport and walking down to this traditional Ladakhi guesthouse by the name of Moonland Tourist Bungalow a kilometre away, was similar to what the first astronauts to the moon may have experienced. Large tracts of barren land, craggy rocks and mountains stretching from one end of the horizon to the other. The chilly September morning greeted us and the endless warm cups of black tea, prepared by Mohammed Rasool, the caretaker of this Jammu and Kashmir Tourist Development Corporation bungalow, where I stayed, was the nectar, I needed throughout my stay in Ladakh. My objectives at Leh, were to address co-ordinators and teachers of the "Sarva Siksha Abhiyan" on "Learning can be fun" and "High altitude stress management through ZeNLP" (a combination of zen meditation and Neuro Linguistic Programming ). Being a vegetarian in strictest terms (no animal products including wool, leather, meat, milk, milk products or eggs), I planned to face the biting cold with sambhalpuri kurtas, khadi jackets and cotton earplugs. Keeping in mind my plans for some high altitude solo treks, I was armed with apricots, walnuts, assorted dry fruits and herbal teabags. Only biodegradable stuff would accompany me on this eco-tourism trek. My meditation tapes, Walkman and camera were neatly packed into my rugsack.
Pangong Tso Lake
I did several short and long treks all over Ladakh but the trek around Pangong Tso lake made me experience the power of nature. This long and narrow lake is near the Chushul mountains on the Indo-Tibet border. Pangong in Ladakhi means concave. The azure blue water of this huge lake is cold, clear and salty. There are lots of minerals at its basin. Its bottom can be seen as the water is crystal clear. Pangong Tso is 150 km. in length and four km. wide. Nearly half of this lake lies in Tibet and is situated 160 km. away from Leh. We rose early and started our jeep safari at 7:00 a.m. The journey was as pleasurable as the destination. The drive took us through the villages of Karu, Tangste and Lukung. We crossed the world's third highest pass Changla (17,250 feet) enroute to Pangong (14,350 feet). Every photograph we clicked enroute resembled a picture postcard. The only animals we encountered were yaks. We played soothing ZeNLP music for relaxation throughout this seven-hour drive over rugged terrain.
The first glimpse of Pangong Tso from miles away was a very divine and spiritual experience. A speck of deep blue amidst sand dunes, rocks and stone. It resembled a blue diamond nestling in the palm of Nature's hand. The closer we got to the lake, the more beautiful it looked. We finally arrived at the shores of this mini-ocean and it was our moment of enlightenment at the end of a pilgrimage. A drop of the ocean was encompassed between natural pyramids of sandstone. The long trek along the shores of this lake is a geologist's dream. Shiny stones, natural gems, crystals, smooth pebbles, rocks, slates and amethysts decorated the banks of this water goddess. I collected as many of these treasures as possible as souvenirs.
Colour change
But the most fascinating phenomenon that awaited us was the changing colours of the lake during the day. From azure to aquamarine to greenish blue to green to purple and violet, the colours of this majestic water body changed with every passing hour. The long boat ride on the placid waters of this ocean of tranquillity calmed my body, mind and soul. The return journey took only five hours but a visit to Pangong lake is a once in a lifetime experience and the investment in the journey was worthwhile, considering that every moment spent was meditation in the truest sense. Ladakh is an ideal destination for my next stress management workshop.
How to get there
Indian Airlines operates daily flights to Leh from New Delhi, Srinagar and Jammu. The to and fro drive from Leh to Pangong Lake costs approximately Rs.4000 by jeep.
JKTDC Moonland Tourist Bungalow at Leh, adjacent to the airport, is a comfortable place to stay. Contact Urgain Lundup, Deputy Director-Tourism, J&K Tourism, Leh or G. M. Kakpori at JKTDC, New Delhi for bookings.
How to get there
Indian Airlines operates daily flights to Leh from New Delhi, Srinagar and Jammu. The to and fro drive from Leh to Pangong Lake costs approximately Rs.4000 by jeep.
JKTDC Moonland Tourist Bungalow at Leh, adjacent to the airport, is a comfortable place to stay. Contact Urgain Lundup, Deputy Director-Tourism, J&K Tourism, Leh or G. M. Kakpori at JKTDC, New Delhi for bookings.
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