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Watery expanse
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Muthupet: for biodiversity buffs, says SOMA BASU
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`IMPENETRABLE SILENCE,' `spectacular scenery,' `watery expanse.' Even before I `sailed off' to the Muthupet Mangrove Forests, I had thought of a number of expressions to describe the area, which is located in the southernmost part of the Cauvery delta.
I was armed with impressive facts. The mangrove wetlands here are ten times bigger than those at Pichavaram. The water from six tributaries of the Cauvery flows into Muthupet, forming two enormous lagoons, which make for great boat rides. About 180 km from Pichavaram, Muthupet extends from Adiramapattinam in the west to Point Calimere in the east. It is bordered by the Palk Strait in the south and extensive mud flats on its northern flank.
Reaching Muthupet via Karaikudi-Aranthangi-Pattukottai (can also be reached from Thanjavur, 50 km away), I got in touch with the M.S. Swaminathan Research Foundation to learn about their efforts in mangrove forests restoration.
Then, I headed for the backwaters and canals. There is no tourism here. The only way to go around is to hire one of the 30-odd fishing boats for Rs. 400. A flat rate is charged for the boat ride for unlimited hours. I must admit my initial disappointment as I prepared for my sea sojourn in a brightly painted tri-colour boat from a point called Pettai.
The silence was shattered by the continuous whirring of the motor boat. The sun was beating down on me mercilessly. As we wound our way, the land on either side of the river Koraiyar seemed denuded.
Mangrove ecologist V. M. Karunagaran informs me that 60 per cent of the 13,000 hectares of the Muthupet mangroves is degraded. Reasons? Indiscriminate felling of trees by bootleggers, grazing, proliferating shrimp farms...
Unique sight
Soon, a unique sight unfolded. Schools of silver-shine fish jumped out of the water as the noisy motor boat approached. Then appeared a flock of seagulls, swooping down and fighting for their breakfast. The dodging game was fascinating as the flock kept following the boat in search of bits of food. The milky fish, locally called koduva, at times jumped so high that quite frequently it landed inside the boat. It was like fishing without a rod or net!
Slowly, Muthupet's vegetation fringing the banks of canals, tidal creeks and lagoons began to make its appearance. The Avicennia marina (locally called alaiyathi) dominates 95 per cent of the tree population here. The trees are tall and the respiratory roots form a kind of neat fence above the ground. The Chief's Corner, a 11 sq. km. lagoon, with a thatched hut and a boardwalk through the mangroves is an interesting spot. With the Forest Department's permission, tourists are allowed to picnic here.
In my first walk through the forests, I saw five types of trees besides a few related species. The swamp which attracts a variety of birds, is a hunting ground for poachers, who target the flamingo. Muthupet is not easy to reach. But it is a unique destination for all those who want to experience a slice of the country's biodiversity.
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Metro Plus
Bangalore
Chennai
Delhi
Hyderabad
Madurai
Mangalore
Tiruchirapalli
Thiruvananthapuram
Vijayawada
Visakhapatnam
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