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Emperor's new clothes
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Once upon a time, kings and queens set fashion standards. Srikantadatta Narasimharaja Wadiyar believes they can do it now as well. BHUMIKA K. speaks to the man who has plunged into designing
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Srikantadatta Narasimharaja Wadiyar: `I would rather make use of my name to make myself some money.' — Photo: Sampath Kumar G.P.
AUSPICIOUS SARIS in auspicious Navaranga colours with auspicious emblems such as horses and elephants, designed by royalty for the masses...
The descendents of the Wadiyar dynasty, popularly referred to as the Mysore Maharajas, are dabbling in fashion with a sacred tangent, and are getting geared to flood the market with the brand, Royal House of Mysore Collection.
Branded saris, bridal wear with zardosi work, affordable prêt lines, leather, jewellery, watches, accessories and more is what will come from the royal talent pool.
Srikantadatta Narasimharaja Wadiyar may sound incongruous in the world of Guccis, Bals, Rathores, Valayas and the like. And erstwhile Mysore royalty plunging into business is another unlikely phenomenon. But he is Mysore's royalty and knows the value of his brand name.
And why not, asks the former prince who recently launched his autumn/winter collection. "Royalty set fashion standards in the past. I am only trying to recreate it in the present. What is there if I use my name for it? I would rather make use of my name to make myself some money."
In the know
One must admit, though, that the man has a genuine interest when it comes to women's clothing. As he himself says, there is more choice in doing women's wear. When you speak to him, you can tell that he's "in the know" when he talks of saris. How many men can, after all, tell a georgette crepe from a tissue silk? "I do a lot of things most men don't!" he says with a rare smile. "I'm also into interior designing." He's redone the Fern Hill Palace in Ooty into a resort and is working on his other palaces in Mysore.
Wadiyar has recently launched the Heritage Royal Silk collection, based on textiles and designs worn by members of the royal family. "Earlier, we had our own weavers in parts of Chennapatna, Ramanagara, Chamarajanagara and parts of Mysore. When my wife wanted a sari with the royal Gandaberunda motif on it, we realised that the quality of silk was not the same... that earlier fineness was not there. So I thought we could get it made for her. But we could not get just one sari made. So we decided to start using these designs and symbols to create a collection," he says, explaining the origin of the fashion line. When he discovered tourists to the Mysore Palace buying synthetics, he thought they should be provided genuine silk at affordable prices.
In the Wadiyar collection, you have silk saris in multiple shades bearing emblems such as the Gandaberunda (two-headed eagle), Iravatha (Indra's four-tusked elephant), Hayagreeva (the royal state horse), the hamsa, the bhoochakra and more. For those who don't care for animal emblems, there is a line inspired by Persian Firdausi work where creepers, leaves and flowers wind around the six yards.
Nearly 500 weavers and their families, dye makers, and silk growers have been provided a livelihood through the new line, says Wadiyar.
"We have saris with various shades of the same colour in one, saris with different coloured pallus. We've even got a sari with nine colours. It looks quite awesome," he says, showing the Navaranga sari — blues, greens, pinks and browns further embellised with chamki and crystal. "In the royal court of Mysore, people wore turbans and clothes made of Navaranga textiles," he recalls. "We also had brocade coats and saris. Even my great-grandfather wore one. A number of zardosi workers, therefore, settled in Mysore." That explains why the Royal Collection also has a range of intricate zardosi ghagras and kundan work too. The colours and combinations for the saris are inspired by Mysore paintings and Mughal miniatures, collected with care over the years.
A lover of paintings, he also designs his own clothes, getting sherwanis and jodhpurs tailored in Delhi and T-shirts made in Tiruppur. "I usually shop in London or Germany for my tuxedos and suits. It's impossible to get my size here." At home, he's comfy in dhoti and jubba or T-shirt while the ceremonial gear is duly elaborate. "Some of the royal robes are in Benarasi silk. We air them out thrice a year and store dry neem leaves and baje roots amidst them for safety. Leather was the exclusive privilege of royalty and was worn while hunting and riding. With the advent of British cavalry, leather breeches came into fashion. We wanted to recreate something for the past. Many youngsters don't know of the glory of Mysore." So a line of leather jackets and pants has started to take shape. Also on the cards is that universal symbol of democracy, denim.
Maharaja Collection
Western wear for men and women, leisure wear for Gen X, gold and gem, and platinum jewellery and handicrafts, and accessories are next in line. A Maharaja Collection of limited edition signature watches is also on Wadiyar's mind. His love for watches is quite well known and he is said to have an extensive and exclusive collection. A store is already open at the Mysore Palace and another is under way at the Bangalore Palace.
But how do people react to royalty being commercialised with such ventures? "I'm not bothered about people's reactions. And those who comment will be the ones who will turn around when I'm successful and claim they were its architect," he says dourly. And adds: "I can't live on love and fresh air. I need to survive."
Art for all
IF YOU feel the fees to learn dance and music are skyrocketing and simply way beyond your budget, then the Swaralaya School of Performing Arts comes as a lifesaver. The school, started by Ranganayaki Rajan, an exponent in Carnatic music, trains students in these two classical forms. The school chooses talented youngsters from economically weaker sections and provides them with a scholarship.
Those interested may contact 23562221/9845020252 or email swaralayamusicdance@ refdiffmail. com.
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