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Ramp blazer
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A tête-à-tête with model turned choreographer on Indian fashion, modelling and more
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Photo: P.V. Sivakumar
FROM SCORCHING the New York city with her models at the haute Earth NYC gig to working on the LIFW back home, not forgetting the continuous training schedules with beauty pageant contestants, Lubna is inarguably one of most sought after names in the realm of Indian fashion. When she says, "no matter what you do in life you should know it from the bottom," what comes to mind is the popular visage that lent grace to Vimal and Raymond's campaigns way back in 80s.
"Those were some of my favourite works. I loved campaigns since you get the opportunity to interact with the camera. Raymond's also was my favourite ramp work," recollects Lubna who was in town recently.
Today the model-turned-choreographer prefers Raghavendra Rathod, Sandeep Khosla, Abu Jani, Wendell Rodricks and Rajesh Pratap, to work with their lines, that is.
Thirteen years into the choreography business Lubna reflects on fashion, now on the business side of it. "The industry has grown a lot more since I started choreography. Earlier if we had eight looks similar to each other on the ramp, today each piece is different. And the lines are provided with accessories. Earlier, a lot of dance was shown in fashion shows. It was more entertainment than fashion. We changed the focus. Today the sets and equipment are extravagant. There are large budgets for the shows. There is a lot more seriousness in the garment business," she explains.
On Indian fashion industry in the light of the global haute couture scene, Lubna stresses on the need for discipline, a key factor in international fashion. "Indian fashion has the reputation of `the industry that never delivers on time.' Orders are cancelled as seasons change. Also, what is required is corporate funding to help designers reach there," reflects Lubna.
As for the role of fashion school in grooming designers, "they definitely help. Everybody is not born with talent. Training is required. The schools help with detailing and industry knowledge such as how the garment is going to fall," she says.
And finally on the topic close to heart, "we were barely 15 models at that point of time. Today you have 20 times the number. But the commitment was greater then. You should keep getting better with every job. You need to keep growing or you will stagnate is what I advise the models," she observes. Time to go back to Mumbai where a lot of wannabe models wait for the guru to help them walk right into arc lights.
SYEDA FARIDA
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