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Floating back in time
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A 135-year-old malika built in the Syrian Christian style
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PEACEFUL AND PICTURESQUE Tharavadu Heritage Home
We had just set foot in God's own country, in search of that elusive stuff called peace. It had rained just then. The sheer collage of colours blinded us — a natural mosaic of greens, yellows and browns, which merged into a beautiful pattern. Even the muddy roads seemed picturesque. A narrow creek appeared out of nowhere. We took a small detour and followed the stream driving through the muddy road, cutting through the foliage, until we saw the board, Tharavadu Heritage Home, Since 1870. We were in Kumarakom, a small island carved out of the backwaters.
The verdant greenery was all enveloping as we entered the portals of this 135-year-old `malika' built in the Syrian Christian style. The creek, which had guided us, flowed into a river scattered with lotuses. A school bell rang close by; devotees emerged out of a temple located on its bank. We munched our breakfast, taking in the scene. It was a lazy day, as birds gnawed on the grains and coconut shells were sun dried in the courtyard or the `koprakalam'.
Overlooking the river
We explored the three-acre property which boasts a heritage preserved over the last century. We went past the dining hall, which overlooks the river and interrupted a group of geese playing in a pool. Stepping over logs of wood, we crossed over to the bank, where some boats were slumbering.
There are three magnificent structures here with ornate wooden work that speaks volumes of a bygone era. Our host, Kencee George, points to an etching on the brick red tiles that adorn the sloping roof which reads 1870 and the name, M. C. Chandy, grandfather of the current owner, Joseph John. The home stay is now jointly promoted by the duo. The sloping roof and terracotta floor have been retained, while the rooms have been renovated to suit all modern requirements.
The common portico comes with arch shaped entrances as they open into various rooms. There are currently eight rooms only and more are on their way. Some rooms have private verandahs that open into the garden. The teak furniture is mostly antique and intricate designs can be seen in all of them. The house smacks of an ancient charm, especially the dusty wooden staircase which is being renovated. An underground storage area, which has been closed now, ends near the reception, says the host.
The architecture tour ended in a sumptuous meal, replete with all the traditional food, soaked in the deliciously rich coconut oil. A trip to Kerala is never complete without a touch of ayurveda. As we treated our frayed nerves and tired muscles, we succumbed to indulgence. Before we knew it, a day just went past us as we launched into sight seeing and it was time for us to shift our abode. And this time, we literally floated around. A spacious double bedroom kettuvellam or the traditional rice barge was waiting for us on the narrow creek with her crew on board. This was an extension of the Malabar hospitality that the Tharavadu Heritage Home offers to make your holiday special. Our journey had not yet ended... .but we think we found a bit of what we were looking for.
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Fact file
Getting there
Located opposite the Government Boat Jetty, The Tharavadu Heritage Home is 12 km from the Kottayam Railway Station. Transfers are offered as part of the package. The closest airport is the Nedumbassery Airport in Cochin which is 70 km via Ernakulam.
Facilities
·Accommodation in a houseboat as part of the package
·Motor boat cruises around the backwaters
·Sight seeing in and around Kumarakom and Kottayam
·Ayurvedic massage on prior request
·Vegetarian and non-vegetarian food and you can even cook your meal yourself
·Fishing rods for anglers
·Souvenir shopping inside the property
·Traditional forms of entertainment arranged on request
·In addition, they double as travel agents organising your holiday in Kerala
Tariff
The entire package can be customised to your budget and is ideal for budget travellers.
An air-conditioned double bedroom would cost you Rs. 1,500 for a day during season time. Meals are extra and would cost between Rs. 75 and Rs. 100 per person. A motorboat cruise costs from Rs. 350 for an hour, while a massage would be Rs. 500. Cruises on houseboats start from Rs. 4,500 onwards for a 22-hour cruise. As rates tend to peak during season, do ask for individual rates on all the luxuries, before you plan your budget
Best time to visit
October to February is the peak season, while June to August are the monsoon months. Kumarakom is very hot during summer, so, avoid going there in May as much as possible
LAKSHMI SHARATH
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Metro Plus
Bangalore
Chennai
Coimbatore
Delhi
Hyderabad
Kochi
Madurai
Mangalore
Pondicherry
Tiruchirapalli
Thiruvananthapuram
Vijayawada
Visakhapatnam
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