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Hakka for the Hyderabadi
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Kafulok is the new Hakka restaurant offering traditional Chinese fare
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CHINESE CHOW Customers tuck into the fare Photo: P.V. Sivakumar
Kafulok as a name for a Chinese eatery can be slightly hatke. But as one steps into this new restaurant on Road No.12 Banjara Hills, all doubts are laid to rest.
Derived from Ka (meaning family), fu (fortune) and lok (happiness), Kafulok is a branch of one of the oldest Hakka restaurants in Tangra, also known as mini China town, Kolkata. "My grandfather used to be the only caterer in Kolkata before he set up the restaurant," says Jeffrey Chen, the third generation restaurateur who in fact designed branch in the twin cities that stands out for its contemporary minimalist ambience of coffee brown tables offset with white tableware.
Find here a generous helping of Chinese porcelain — tables, jars, replica of antique kettles, and of lucky bamboo. Bamboo finds a special place in the Chinese culture, owing to its resilient nature — it grows through the biting winters.
Find here loads of good chi symbols from Feng Shui that are soothing much like the soft harp and flute notes played here. "Chinese people consider eating as an art. A comprehensive one that combines seeing, smelling, hearing and tasting. The purpose is to preserve health," explains Jeffrey. A chef himself, he adds, "despite the entry of other global cuisines, Chinese food is popular with connoisseurs here. The cuisine offers varieties unlimited since each province has its own delicacies," he says.
Kafulok is a Hakka speciality restaurant. But the USP is the special spread of home recipes. "These are authentic dishes which we actually eat at home. You can call them health food," he observes. Garlic steamed fish, betki fish gently steamed, flavoured and garnished with garlic is a delight. This is a meal by itself as also the Steamed tofu cake.
If you are looking for an exotic course, begin with Thai kwet thong, a tongue tingling thick broth made with mushroom and choice of meat— chicken, prawn or crab. Follow it up with Oriental fish rolls (much like the spring rolls) and Corn cream cubes for appetisers. For the main course Prawn capsicum in white sauce tastes best with steamed rice as also a sweet Honey smoked chicken with Chinese bread. The steamed buns are mildly salted and soft.
Interested in rice noodles? Go for Hakka mein foon. These are fine noodles cooked with shredded vegetables and meats of choice. Moon faan— steamed rice with chicken or mushrooms is equally delectable. Desserts? Choose from Date pancakes and Honey noodles served with vanilla ice cream.
"In China we don't take desserts after meals. Its either a soup or tea," says Jeffrey, as water kettles and those with jasmine tea do the rounds. Chinese tea is refreshing and soothing, ideal to sip during the meal or to wrap up your dinner fare.
SYEDA FARIDA
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