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Grasslands, sholas, bison

Why bother with Kodaikanal, asks SOMA BASU

MANNAVANNUR An idyllic holiday destination (top left) The elusive Indian gaur PHOTOS: SOMA BASU

After returning from this RLT, I wonder why people rave about Kodaikanal. Perhaps they have not ventured into the Upper Palani Hills and are yet to explore places such as Mannavannur. Those who have heard of Mannavannur often associate it with the Central Research Wool Institute and its sheep farm, the now defunct rabbit farm and bison valley. But there's more to this place.

The landscape of Mannavannur is dominated by grasslands and shola patches, comprising exotic species. The verdant landscape contrasts beautifully with the cool blue of the Mannavannur lake in the valley. This place, where silence reigns supreme, is at an altitude of 7,000 feet above sea level.

To experience Nature in all its freshness, I head 30 km southwest of Kodai town at 7 in the morning.

Four persons who are committed to promoting eco-tourism in the region accompany me, they set up the Chennai-based The Nature's Trust in 2003 to help people experience the beauty of Nature and understand the environment. The trust joined hands with the Kodaikanal Forest Office to "protect, maintain and retain" the picturesque landscape.

As we drive into the interior of Kodaikanal hills, the air is thick with anticipation. The last stretch of about nine km from Berijam to Mannavannur has a high population of the Indian Gaur. The trust is trying to get the area officially declared a `bison valley'. At every bend of the winding road, we hope to spot the animal but with no luck.

Awesome sight

After some disappointing halts, we reach the top of the Mannavannur hill some two hours later to be greeted by a spectacular sight — grasslands stretching over 1,048 sq km form a carpet, interspersed with eucalyptus, wattle and shrubs.

Thanks to the pleasant weather, terrace cultivation of several vegetables including broccoli, French and butter beans, carrots, cauliflowers and peas, is practised here.

The Mannavannur lake is surrounded by hills on all sides and forms part of an active animal corridor. It is learnt that apart from bison, sambar, barking deer, Nilgiri langur, tahr and jungle cats are sighted here. The place is also known for its 165 species of butterflies, 15 types of dabchicks, wood pigeon and the Nilgiri pipit.

Despite its proximity to Kodaikanal, Mannavannur is free from pollution. The rich biodiversity lends itself to trekking, camping and star gazing.

The Nature's Trust has set up a base camp called Camper's Club on a 26-acre plot. There are eight small cottages with basic facilities. It organises educational tours and treks (there are 21 routes), besides offering `eco-technology' training in clay modelling, homemade chocolates, dry flower arrangements and natural dye painting on T-shirts.

It's time to head back to Kodaikanal. Suddenly, we spot two bison grazing on the slopes. I take a couple of pictures. My trip to Mannavannur is now complete.

Where to stay: The Camper's Club is the only accommodation available in Mannavannur.

For prior booking and more details, contact D1, Saibaba Colony, No.1 Kannagai Street, East Tambaram, Chennai. Ph.: 94444-77358.

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