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Tea time at Tellicherry

Built by a wealthy Englishman in 1862, this Tellicherry mansion has a commanding view of the sea

GREEN AND SERENE The Ayesha Manzil

From beautiful terracotta hilltop bungalows to the magnificent deep blue coastline, one of the most breathtaking of locations in Tellicherry, is Ayesha Manzil, a heritage home and an enchanting abode of the Moosas. Commanding a panoramic view of the Arabian Sea, the bungalowis known for its fine architectural detail. As the owner, Moosa puts it, "Ayesha Manzil, named after my grandmother, was earlier known as the Judge's Bungalow. It was built in 1862 by Murdoch Brown, a trader with the East India Company who owned a lot of estates. My grandfather bought this and the adjoining bungalows from Murdoch in 1900. From 1900 to 1905 my grandfather rented it out to some European judges for a sum of Rs. 175. `Silk and Spice' travel communications had organised a magnificent light and sound show, portraying historical events of the Malabar spice trade and the expeditions of Marco Polo, Vasco da Gama, the Phoenicians, the Chinese, the Romans and the Arabs to the Malabar coast.

Ayesha Manzil is set in a lush garden, atop a hill. Tourists staying here can discover the long beaches, palm trees and marinas of Tellicherry. Within three miles from the bungalow, is the 5 kilometre drive-in beach and the Tiruthi island which is to be linked with the mainland by cable car. The lighthouse can be seen in the distance. Murdoch Brown also introduced cakes, the English tea time snack and they was baked in the local Mambally bakery, which still exists. It has since branched out to Thiruvananthapuram and Kochi.

Opulently furnished

The 138-year-old colonial style bungalow is opulently furnished with antique rosewood furniture, China ware, chandeliers, rare lamps and art treasures, all family heirlooms. One kilometre away, the famous Gundert's bungalow set atop a hillock overlooking a river, still stands. Herman Gundert was a young German scholar from Stuttgart, who along with the Basel Missionaries came and settled here in 1836 and stayed on till 1859. He started the first school in 1853 which is believed to be the oldest in the country. He also wrote and published the first Malyalam English dictionary. Another historic building is the old British fort which is within walking distance.

Ayesha Manzil is a one-storey mansion with gently pitched broad gables. The lower gable does not extend to the porch which is covered by an extended terrace with a low parapet. A larger gable covers the main portion of the house. The roof is essentially Mangalore tiles. The Mangalore tiles were first brought into the country by the Basel Missionaries. They were copying patterns of French tiles. The first units were set up in Mangalore and hence the name. The chimneys are of rough faced brick. The exterior and interior walls are white stucco. The windows are rectangular casement with square glass panes. One can spot an occasional boat sailing on the choppy waters of the sea and glistening sprays of white surf sent up by the waves lashing against the rocks scattered along the coastline. The translucent blue of the Arabian Sea holds you spellbound.

Swimming pool

Ayesha Manzil has a fresh water swimming pool in its compound reminiscent of the Kerala temple tanks. The colourful tropical garden has a wonderful selection of trees, shrubs and flowers. The gigantic rain trees and gul mohurs are as old as the bungalow. There are hostas, ixora, flame of the forest, hibiscus, lantana, lily, a variety of palms and screwpine. The approach to the main house is through the portico, leading to the verandah. There is a low trellised parapet with seats below the railing running all around the verandah. One can lounge in the verandah curled up with a novel in one of those antique easy chairs and gaze at the calm blue sea, caressed by a cool breeze.

The drawing room leads to a large bedroom, one of the five suites that Moosa rents out to tourists. There is a huge four-poster canopied bed in pure teak with baluster shaped legs and a twin row of mini-balustrades topped with an intertwining design of leaves and flowers for the head and foot board of the bed. The canopy is made with a fine fabric — it's actually made from Moosa's mother's Benares saree. This type of a canopy was used in a typical Mopilla bridal chamber or "Ara" as it is known in Kerala. The curtains also have a distinct floral design in pastel shades.

Another redeeming feature in the bedroom is a massive rosewood dinner wagon which has been converted into a dressing table. There are three or four such rosewood dinner wagons in the different bedrooms and they have been converted into dressing tables by affixing mirrors. In the glass cabinets of the dinner wagons bone china and other Chinese, English and German porcelain are displayed, reflecting the tastes of the times.

The lobby upstairs that overlooks the sea has been converted into a second dining room and is equipped with some classy furniture. Now, for the menu. The heritage home offers optional breakfast, lunch, packed picnic lunches, dinner and a whole selection of sea food delights, traditional Mopilla cuisine, poultry and meat delicacies and special biriyanis. One can have lunch a la carte on the verandah or in the garden.

MEERA RAJAGOPAL

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