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Time for retro chic
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Erum Ali's latest lines for the New Year and the wedding season reflect her classic sense of style
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SCORING WITH DETAILS One of designer Erum Ali's creations
"My clothes are about volume," beams Erum Ali, unveiling her fresh collection of trousseau and cocktail wear for the season at her recently launched store on Khader Nawaz Khan Road.
Going through the range displayed in the two-level, clutter-free ambience, you realise they are not just about volume, they also speak volumes about the designer's dedication to her craft. From versatile tops with an unusual visual sense to the classic, flowing kurtas, Erum has sharpened her act with fine cuts and finer craftsmanship.
Reigning with retro chic are the Mughal-e-Azam-style panelled kurtas that are drenched with details. "The idea was to recreate the mystique of the past. The typical 32-panel, bejewelled kali-cut kurtas have always fascinated me. They are a huge challenge in terms of cut, colour combination and craftsmanship. They just don't work if all these factors fail to fuse."
Stones and sequins add sparkle to the trousseau line of saris and lehengas. "Both the past and the present are important to me. I've taken traditional elements and tweaked them to suit contemporary tastes. So while the clothes look effortless for the wearer, they are far from easy for the designer and the craftspersons," she says, pointing out to a lehenga that's taken over six weeks of strenuous work by a karigar. "Conceptually speaking, it isn't easy. Most of the trousseau pieces are modern, yet classic. See the amount of detailing — in colour and workmanship. You have aari, beads, `Swarovski pearls', stones, metal sequins, layering and even gotta."
If you are not so much of a crafts lover, there's a simpler line that scores with innovative textures and prints. On the salwar and separates side are creations with necklace necklines and intricately embroidered belts. "What I've done is worked on feminine silhouettes with simple nuances to give them a different look," she says, displaying kurtas and tops with interesting necks and waistlines. "Kurtas styled like bandgala sherwanis are also a big hit this season. They are long, flowing and feminine."
The New Year line includes "extended ponchos, skirts of various lengths and corseted blouses and tops. The colours are rich silk tones and the fabrics are crushed silks, versatile velvets and sheer georgettes. Animal prints are also an attraction in the new line. As for styles, they are veering towards kaftan cuts and Chinese collars."
Though Erum designs Western separates and fusion wear, her heart lies in traditional trousseau. "Yes, trousseau is my calling card. After so much of work, I've realised that nothing fascinates me more than ethnic trousseau." In an already crammed designer market, her USP, Erum says, are "Quality workmanship, wearable designs and reasonable price points."
And fashion aficionados will not dispute that.
T. KRITHIKA REDDY
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