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ROAD LESS TRAVELLED

On history's trail

If the past fascinates you, say SOMA BASU and M.BALAGANESSIN

PHOTO: SOMA BASU

RANJANKUDIKOTTAI Quaint and quiet

Driving down NH45 from Tiruchi to Chennai, it is easy to miss this rock structure that appears like a rounded drum jutting out of the rural landscape. Unless the familiar blue board of the Archaeological Survey of India catches your attention. But when on an RLT assignment, it is the most unfamiliar of names and tracks that interest you.

So we set foot on this narrow dusty road that branches off the national highway into a sleepy village called Ranjankudi. With the sun setting, the entire village appears to have gone into a slumber. As get close to our destination, the giant structure of a fort gradually unfolds. Near the ramparts of this historical monument are a typical rural school and a noon-meal centre. This is Ranjankudikottai (also spelt Nanjankudikottai), which was the bone of contention between the British and the French almost three centuries ago.

A much neglected fort today, it hardly draws visitors. That the monument is maintained and protected by the ASI is hard to believe. Yes, the board is there but there is no caretaker around. As we climb the broad steps cut into the rock, a group of shepherds comes towards us, eager to lead us inside the fort.

The fort is said to have been built by a Jagirdar under the Nawab of Carnatic in 17th Century. The walls are built with neatly cut stone blocks. There are three fortification walls at different heights and the bottom most is the main rampart. The fort looks oblong with semi-circular bastions and is encircled by a moat fed by a tank.

Shockingly enough, an unlocked and almost broken iron gate takes you inside the structure said to have been built on a sprawling temple premises once dedicated to Siva and Hanuman. The fort now has two mosques — the one on top was apparently used by members of the royal family, while the other at the base was meant for soldiers.

Deciding factor

Ranjankudikottai's architecture is quite a puzzle. A flight of steps takes you to an open ground called the `pettai', once used as a battlefield. History has it that this fort was the scene of the battle of Valikondah between the English (supported by Mohammed Ali) and the French (supported by Chanda Sahib) in 1751. In the series of wars between the French and the British, the possession of Ranjankudikottai remained a deciding factor for victory. Although the French could defeat the British in the initial phase, the latter took over in course of time with the help of the local Muslim population.

The top most tier is known as `Kottai medu'. It has peeping squares for keeping vigil and openings for placing giant cannons. There's a small water body which might have served as a swimming pool for the Nawabs. Besides the palace and residential buildings, the fort has several underground chambers and a secret tunnel linking the `Kottai medu' with the `pettai'. A massive pit in the centre is said to have been used as a cell for male prisoners, while female prisoners were kept in small blocks and were starved to death. Historians confirm this theory. The fort's strategic location for deployment of forces near the then Tiruchonopoly, uncovers a wealth of information about battles of the past. Ranjankudi is a treasure house of knowledge and it will help history lovers if the department ensures its upkeep and installs proper information counters. However, efforts are on to develop the fort into a tourist spot.

The view from the top is beautiful with the surrounding lush fields appearing like a green carpet. A trip to Ranjankudikottai can be made more meaningful if you brush up your history lessons before setting out.

How to get there: Ranjankudikottai is 22 km north of Perambalur on NH45. Once you reach Mangalamedu police station, turn into the village road that leads you to the historical monument.

It is 253 km from Chennai, 220 km from Madurai, 90 km from Salem and 70 km from Tiruchi. Nearest air and railhead is Tiruchi.

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